Fuel filter replacement on 2009+ VW Jetta Golf JSW and Audi A3 TDI VW… — Volkswagen Caddy wagon II

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Fuel filter replacement on VW Jetta, Golf, JSW, and A3 TDI

Fuel filter replacement on VW Jetta, Golf, JSW, and A3 TDI

How to change the fuel filter on VW Jetta, Golf, JSW, and A3 TDI (common rail engine)

This article shows how to and replace the fuel filter on a VW Jetta TDI, Golf. JSW or Audi A3 TDI. There are 2 styles of VW filters plus the A3 filter.

If you have a 2005.5-2006 please see 1000q: early mk5 filter change. If you have type #3 or suffix b filter, also read 1000q: 1 fuel filter change Golf TDI). Although pictures here are of the early mk5 VW no difference in those pictures vs. the mk5, mk6, or Audi A3 This page also has notes on part numbers, for evidence of high pressure pump failures, and the difference in the priming procedure.

Change the filter every 20,000 or as needed. All fuel filters from here are made by or Meyle so don#039;t worry buying a non genuine VW part. In Mann makes the OEM VW/Audi filters.

Below left is a new brand Mann filter PU The used filter is an OEM VW/Audi 1k0 127 177 a (interchangeable with 1k0 127 434 a) with the PU 936/2 and Mann Filter. — this 2 hole mouth filter is not interchangeable the one hole narrow mouth

If you are using high percentages of such as 85% or 100% biodiesel, you expect to change it early biodiesel will clean out the old and clog the fuel filter if significant buildup in the fuel Your mileage will with biodiesel and the amount of but as a safe rough estimate, the filter at 1000 miles and again at 5000 miles using high percentages of A more economical idea is to a small clear inline filter before the main filter to screen out larger and let you see how clogged the fuel filter may be.

symptoms of a clogged fuel are stumbling at high rpm or lack of A general lack of power also be limp mode, see TDI limp mode and 1000q: rev or constant low power for possible and the solution. Make sure these symptoms are not caused by an air in the fuel line or a clogged at the fuel tank. Bacterial or growth in the fuel tank can the pickup. It#039;s also that the low pressure in tank fuel pump, the lift is failing or bad. This can hard starting or a stalled due to fuel starvation.

You may hear that the fuel are heated but this is a common — they are slightly by the return line fuel and heat off the engine. There is no or electric heater unless installed an aftermarket heater for a or grease system. You wouldn#039;t diesel or biodiesel to be too hot anyways.

The below shows a really used fuel filter. The PD engines put some soot the fuel. Your newer should not have any soot in the so the used filter should much cleaner (brownish-tan).

The 2 fuel filters for VW TDI common engine and the Audi A3 filter

TDI use 2 different fuel filters. Jetta TDI built up to about used the 2 hole wide filters (1k0127434 or 1k0127434a). VW Jetta TDI built after and 2010 Golf TDI should use the 1 narrow mouth filter The difference in the part number is no suffix a, or suffix b.

The difference in the is 1 hole narrow mouth B) or 2 hole wide mouth (no filter and A). They use different and the 2 hole wide mouth is taller. I believe the difference in was due to rolling changes and parts during production. VW switched one style, to another, then to the first, and now I think they are to get rid of the leftovers. My opinion is that the transition periods, which equipped on your car could be as as the guy on the assembly line grabbing from the bin on the left vs. the bin on the right. though the 2010 Audi A3 TDI and basic chassis are the same as the and Jetta TDI, it also a different housing, adding to the

2009 VW Jetta sedan and and Audi A3 TDI use the engine code CBEA. All others have engines. The fuel filters are not to engine type.

2009+ VW Golf, and Sportwagen TDI fuel

If your fuel filter is picture #1 or #2, you use the wide mouth 2 filter (they are interchangeable). If filter housing is picture #3, you use the mouth 1 hole filter, reading this article to 1000q: 1 hole fuel change (2010 Golf Filter #3 is shorter than the ones so it#039;s not interchangeable. to enlarge the pics)

The wide mouth filter uses the star shaped cap on #1 and #2 vs. the lip cap on #3. #1 has a bleed screw in the middle of the cap and the don#039;t. #1 also has a bayonet so you can remove the housing by pulling it up and The others are secured to the motor by 3x 10mm bolts/nut. Inside the the filters for type no suffix and a in picture 1 and 2 sit around a black shown below and come the olympic ring seal. b shown in picture 3 is attached to the

Picture #1: use VW# 1k0 127 434 or 1k0 127 177. The service says that some should be drawn out of the torx drain but you will probably find water. The other types don#039;t even drains.

Picture #2: use VW# 1k0 127 434 a or 1k0 127 177 a . from

If your fuel filter is picture #3, use VW# 1k0 127 434 b or 1k0 127 177 b . from kermatdi

The difference is in the filter height and construction. The wide mouth sits higher to make for the water separator and the narrow does not. You#039;ll never find any water in the

The filter housing with the screw was disassembled to show the the fuel takes inside the by DanG144 and is mirrored here permission (thanks!). Click the image to open his .pdf in a new window.

2010-2014 Audi A3 TDI filter

The 2010-2014 Audi A3 TDI a different filter and housing though it uses the CBEA The housing and filter are shown The fuel filter for 8p generation A3 TDI (2010-2014) is # 3c0 127 434 (3c0127434). It uses torx bolts. The torx part number is Audi# wht 001 Other than these 2 the replacement procedure is the same.

(click links to compare prices, some prices shipping)

T30 torx screwdriver/wrench bit

cable from ross

paper towels

1 fuel See notes above to confirm part you need.

20k mile filter kits other misc filters, include VIN when ordering to correct fuel filter) early A5 jetta. kermatdi A5 jetta. metalman parts kit

Safety disclaimer — you are with open fuel and fuel vapors when you the fuel filter! Make that there are no sources of spark, or open flames the car or where fuel vapors reach. Work only in a ventilated area where any vapors can be immediately evacuated and if is spilled, clean it up before you working. Although diesel are not as flammable as gasoline vapors at temperature and pressure (as seen in the below at the 1:00 minute — it#039;s a demonstration do not try that yourself! ), you still to comply with all cautions in factory service manual. eye protection at all times when on your car. See the TOS Agreement for the legal disclaimer. Diesel will melt asphalt and lines on your car so clean up any immediately. Make sure to use because diesel fuel has a odor and you don#039;t want it into your hands.

The key be off and the engine should not be running or the fuel system can be under Wrap a rag around the filter to catch any fuel spills. If you any diesel fuel, wipe it up it can melt asphalt or rubber if to soak. Here is a video the basics, please read all the here as well and ask any questions in the

There are 5x T30 torx screws the filter housing and 1 torx for the bleed point in the middle. the bleed screw (if equipped) to release any pressure and then all 5 torx screws to remove the

The screws tend to get over because they are only to be torqued to about 4 ft-lb. If are stuck, put a drop of PB blaster or penetrating lubricant around the heads and let it soak. This make it much easier to them without risk of the heads. When you lift the some fuel will out.

The green seal comes with the new filter is for the cover. The blue olympic seal is for the fuel filter. If you a bleed screw there#039;s a metal washer under the If you don#039;t have a bleed ignore the metal washer came with the filter.

Check for metal flakes on top of your fuel filter. If you a good picture, please your picture here to others what it may look A few CBEA/CJAA engines found in engines had failed high fuel pumps which and sent metal flakes the fuel system. Because the is downstream of the fuel filter, bits will also the injectors and pumps all the way back it hits the fuel filter on the way to the engine. If you see evidence of this, document it yourself and at the dealer.

The top (the cap) has the fuel connected to it. The bottom part is the Some have tabs let you pull the fuel filter out. Others are held 2x 10mm bolts and a nut (visible holding it.

Pour the old fuel the fuel tank and clean out the

If you have canister type #1, the (bayonet clamp) fit into slots on the fuel filter (removed for illustration). If you have the types, remove the 3x 10mm The left bolt really has to be loosened instead of removed if you the non-tab mount because its is actually a slot. In the tab type a hole. The large silver thing is the passenger side mount.

Gently pry the old filter up using 2 screwdrivers. The bottom is to the hosing and if it pops out it will fuel everywhere. Always eye protection at all times when on your car.

If you have a Jetta TDI or have filter picture #3 your filter be the 1 hole narrow mouth The filter and insides look but the basic procedure is the same. refer to 1000q: 1 hole filter change (2010 TDI for additional notes if you have type #3.

Remove the old filter and it with your new fuel Look for metal bits at the If you see any, this could be of a failing high pressure pump.

Take clean fuel and fill the fuel as much as possible. Diesel is a lubricant and you want to thoroughly the high pressure fuel and injectors with fuel.

Replace the blue olympic and green filter cap seal. The olympic rings fuel seals will only fit the recessed housing one way. is also a tab on the column which the cap to the column.

First tighten the T30 torx screws hand in a diagonal star pattern to it even, as if you were tightening lug nuts. Keeping the lid even avoid pinching the cap#039;s and causing a leak. If you have a cap a bleed screw, tighten the screws to 2.2 ft- lbs. This is 27 lbs or 3 NM. If you have a cap without any bleed tighten the screws to 3.7 ft lbs, or 44 lbs, 5NM. I don#039;t why the service manual states torque settings for different so just don#039;t over them (let the o-ring do its check for leaks, and it should be OK.

the engine off but the ignition key to ON, plug VCDS cable into the port and start the software. 01-Engine.

Select Output -03.

Cycle through the and you will come to the below Let the electric fuel pump run for 60 seconds. The service manual to do this 3 times. You will it buzzing in the fuel tank. earlier TDI, your tank#039;s electric lift does not cycle on when you the key to ON. Therefore you must use VCDS to air out of the fuel pumps and lines. there#039;s still fuel in all the and injectors, there#039;ll be lots of air too and rail injectors and high pumps are not tolerant of air. fuel is an oil and lubricant).

You can also run the through Basic Settings. Go to 35 and press ON and it will run both the in and axillary fuel pumps.

If you have VCDS you can manually the pumps to run them and prime the system. This is not recommended it#039;s much harder and you run both pumps at the same There is one electric fuel in the fuel tank (lift and another above the motor — the aux boost pump. are some more pictures and a This is not a factory approved but will work.

Here are thumbnails of the fuel pump and the aux boost pump. (the on the right is with headlight for illustration to show the terminals)

Here are some notes dweisel. Connect 12V jumper to the two large connectors. Apply to the one on the left (if you are facing the rear of the negative to the one on the right. Once you put to the connectors the pump should The fuel sending unit I ran pumped approx. 128 oz. of fuel per It took 15 seconds for the pump to the fuel sending unit fuel when the unit was empty. With the pump in about 1/2 of fuel a lot of foam was but the fuel in the line was free of

On the back of the aux boost pump the +/- are marked. Connect jumper to the appropriate terminals and connect to 12v and the will run. Priming you need to run BOTH pumps at the time for 1 minute for three

Do you have any other questions changing the fuel filter on 2009+ Jetta, Golf, or A3 TDI? Please ask in the VW and Audi forum here. myturbodiesel.com or the site below.

Check for any fuel lines or tools. the engine and inspect for leaks. The manual also says to let the car up, and take a test drive, the accelerator all the way down at least and check for any leaks. Below is a picture showing routing of the lines if you removed them. is a video from 2009vwjettatdi some of these points. I not draw suction from the filter drain screw (if because it drains from the not the top so it will not help bleed air I also suggest priming the as described earlier and filling the housing with fuel. the pedal also will not do since the car is drive by wire. than that, good

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