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Tech. Center = VW Tech = Topic started by: on October 26, 2008, 10:06:30 pm

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: ASBug on October 26, 2008, pm

Welcome to the Kermy Qustions I will be posting LOTSA here. If you have any responses, helpa fella out.

1976 Westfalia Campmobile 1970cc type 4 engine (I believe) all the FI stuff there, VERY ROTTEN HOSES.

101,800, Refab engine put in at

Questions:

#1) Any one have any idea why I open the rear hatch?

-I the correct key, and I can feel the button doing something, but the will not release.

#2) How does one the niffty wood panel inch thick) with out it. Those little black are in tight and I feel that I am to destroy the wood if I keep

#3) Is it possible to pull the gas tank the engine in? It sure looks one could do that if he removed all the stuff.

#4) does anyone an extra push button for a cabinet handle?

I am missing

#5) is it normal for the radio to work if the switch is off? It kinda sence, but I am just curious.

just any proane place my tank?

Updates — All is working with the exception of the I have been running the on the plug in and have a little to do to the wire posts at the secondary to test the battery charger. works, there was propane in the from 6 years ago.

is just about it.


Thanks fo the Want to get this thing for some camping.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 27, 2008, 01:18:18 pm

I answer them all, but what I know:

3) I’ve it’s possible to pull the with the engine in, but I don’t It might be more work and than just dropping the And if you’re replacing all the fuel anyways, dropping the engine be a good idea.

www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=2434

5) probably how the PO wired it up. There’s no accessory position in the ignition so when the key is on, so’s your There’s a good chance you burn up your points the key on, so a lot of people just wire up radio to an always-on 12V source, so can run it without the key in.

The horn is tricky, it’s not up like you’d expect. wired up hot all the time, and when you the button it connects the ground, the circuit. The steering column is part of the circuit, and at the bottom a tab that the horn wire to. Most of the time this comes loose or the tab breaks

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Post by: ASBug on October 31, 11:49:41 am

Thanks Russ,

Questions:

7) Is there a wireing for the Westfalia part of my camper?

I had 3 red that were loose: 1) guage red with white that goes to the data near the main battery. 2) a red line that ran to the relay is mounted high on the side of the bay door near the auxillary 3) A large Guage red with 4 Dark Red or Brown lines goes along the bottom of the bay and disappears under the filter Any way I hooked these upt to the hot wire and nothing happened. They like they hadn’t replaced when the PO replaced the cables

I also have a of sm guage brown wires, with spost and some out that appear to go no where. is also a sm guage white comming out of the the same wire cover. This comes out under the data port on the main battery side of the bay. They appear not to onto the central ground is there, as there are only 2 and they are occupied.

8) If I pull the pump is it just a matter of it up to a battery 12v to see if it’ll pump. want to make sure I don’t fry it.

9) Is there a way to check the before I sink $150 fuel hoses?

This is I am seeing:

-$350 for new carbie set up. VS. for correct Hose/clamps/filter + (if bad) $100’ish (on the samba I have a 1978..) + used fuel $80 off the samba. So if the fuel pump and are dead, I would dead on using the carbie set up.

— I that this will not some happy, but I am just here.

Thanks for any info you may have.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:17:03 pm

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Post by: Ret.Bugtech on October 31, 12:19:10 pm

I would question any electrical stuff sold You need the wiring diagram for year. VW changed little every year. I know I would do.

I had to work on stuff this everyday when I was at the Not anymore Thank God. roll:

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:21:07 pm

Secondary is working the fridge, and I am able to it’s charge from the and able to charge it with the

The relay that connects the to the primary battery is pretty at the terminals, I replaced 3 of the female ends, if it is bad is it available. I assume it is to let the secondary battery charge off the I’ll try to get a part # off the relay. It has 5 wires on the bottom of it and is where the battery grounds to the frame.

Post by: ASBug on October 31, 12:32:19 pm

Quote from:

I know what I would do. roll:

And what would you do?

I am toward the carbie.

I have a 1600 DP type 1 that I had slamming in there, but this is an and I am not sure that it’ll up.

And the 2L that is in it has like 14 K miles on it being professionally rebuilt that was 18 yrs ago. )

I can still be but I am really wanting this to run sooner rather than

Thanks,

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:35:32 pm

I have the wireing diagram for a 1976 bus from the net and have plotted it out on a D drawing that is 2′ X and it has NOTHING about the wires I was questioning. Thant makes me that these are all Westy

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Quote from: ASBug

8) If I the Fuel pump is it just a of wireing it up to a battery 12v to see if it’ll Just want to make that I don’t fry it.

If it’s out of the you can indeed hook it up to 12V and you should it kick on. If it’s in the bus, the key in the on position, take the top of the AFM off and move the arm from the metal tab on the side. You also hear it kick on.

9) Is there a way to check the Brain I sink $150 into hoses?

I wouldn’t worry the brain. They’re solid electronics, and there’s not even any test procedures for them. the Bentley says suspect the ECU is bad after testing every component. I have an extra they’re always overpriced on The

Quote from: ASBug

is what I am seeing:

-$350 for new set up. VS. $150 for correct Hose/clamps/filter + (if Brain $100’ish (on the samba I found a 1978..) + used pump $80 off the samba. So if the fuel and brain are dead, I would on just using the carbie set up.

I know that this not make some happy, but I am researching here.

I also a couple of extra fuel they need to be tested I also have a brand new one as a backup as well. I think the relay would fail the fuel pump or the ECU anyway.

Go whatever you’re more with, for me that’s FI. If you go with a setup, consider duals. perform a lot better than a center mounted deal.

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: Russ on October 31, 2008, pm

I don’t know much Westfalia wiring. Mine’s a camper, so I don’t have a or dual battery to worry Here’s some wiring I found:

www.type2.com/dakhlia/CIRCUITS/westwiring_us1.gif

www.type2.com/dakhlia/CIRCUITS/westwiring_us2.gif

I found this homemade one says it’s for a ’79. know how similar it is to your though.

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/bus-79-westy.jpg)

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 31, 2008, 05:21:59 pm

WOW

U R Da Man!

I think that the you have referenced will be the to the questions that I have

I am very interested in checking my pump tommorow.

If it’s in the with the key in the on position, take the top of the AFM off and the arm away from the metal tab on the You should also hear it on.

Question #10) what the is an AFM?

Thanks.

I will sink a Ben and a half into the system next Monday.

If my is bad, will you sell me one of

Thanks.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: Russ on 31, 2008, 05:33:32 pm

AFM is the air flow It’s on top of the air filter to the top and right of the it’s the big black plastic The AFM draws in measured quantities of air the intake and uses it as one of its primary for the fuel injection. Inside, a door is held shut a spring. As air is drawn in, it forces the open, which is connected to a arm that pushes a contact a resistive track. The ECU can tell how air is going in by sending a fixed to the AFM and measuring how many ohms it gets back. You should be to pry the plastic cover off the top with fingers.

The reason this works is because after you the engine, the double relay in and powers the fuel pump as as the door inside the AFM is open. it shuts, it contacts the strip and off power to the pump, to prevent gas pumping in the event the engine if you’re in a wreck, for instance. Of this also assumes double relay is good

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/2569819096_6705c06b7c_o.jpg)

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/2568993153_9d0dee0f84_o.jpg)

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 31, 2008, 05:49:12 pm

I do not to repete myself,

But URDAMAN!

I saw little plastic lid on the side of the housing, then I saw where the PO had it down. So pulling it off is going to be a

I am going to pull the FP off tommorow and it.

11) Where is the Double relay you mentioned?

I am numbering these because I am trying to get it running in 20 or less.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: Russ on 31, 2008, 06:24:16 pm

The double is in the left hand side of the compartment, mounted to the firewall. It is, literally, two relays together in one (or plastic) housing. One side to the bus’s electrical system and the connects to the FI wiring harness. you engage the starter motor, one of the relay closes and sends to the fuel pump. Once the is started and the key is moved back to the position, the other relay in and keeps the supply of power to the fuel pump, as long as the inside the AFM is open.

I have ordered the correct 7mm and have removed the fuel I cleaned all the varnish off of the OUTSIDE of the It must have had a drippy on the inlet side. The pump click, and then nothing. I and cleaned and cleaned and sprayed the and then put a hose with a cup of car cleaner on the inlet side. I the hose and hit the juice. Same click and then nothing. about 4 hits of the juice, it primmed and pumped. I pumped 2 from one can to another and no hickups. I that I have ressurected the pump. Once I get all the hoses and the pump installed, I’m to change the oil and filter and attempt to it up.

I am hoping that it’ll purr..

We’ll see.

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: ASBug on November 09, 2008, pm

OK,

It is time for another rousing of name that wire.

The below shows 2 runs of one is a pigtail that has 2 pale or white wires and a bare that go up into a loom. The has a round head and has a radius’ed running up the length of the plug.

The loom has 2 long brown and with silver dots. is also a white or yellow comming out as well. When I see I think Ground to body.

of these appears to have attached lately.

Any heads up on would be appreciated.

With the of the round three hole all the wires have a standard female plug on them.

in advance for the help.

KC.

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/sany2173.jpg)

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: Russ on November 09, 2008, pm

www.ratwell.com/technical/TDCMarker.html

You can most likely cut it or wrap it up nicely and secure it. And good you got the fuel pump again. When I get back dig through mine and test so we’ll at least have spares.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 10, 2008, 05:10:52 pm

Close, and it alot like it, except he and has a photo of a male plug and is a female plug.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on November 10, 2008, 08:41:54 pm

Terminal Designations (Excerpts DIN Standard 72 552) The terminal do not identify the conductors, because with different terminal can be connected at the two ends of each If the number of terminal designations is not (multiple-contact connections), the terminals are numbered using numbers or whose representations of specific are not standardized.

IGNITION

1 Ignition coil, distributor, low voltage

Ignition with two separate electrical

1a to ignition contact breaker I

1b to contact breaker II

2 short-circuit (magneto ignition)

(Polarity possible at terminals 32-33)

49a

49b Output, second turn-signal

49c Output, third turn-signal

STARTER

50 Starter control

50a Output for starter control

battery switch)

50b Starter with parallel operation of two with sequential control

50c at starting relay for starter I

relay for sequential control of the current during parallel of two starters)

50d Input at starting for starter I

(Starting relay for control of the engagement current parallel operation of two starters)

50e Start-locking relay

50f Output, relay

50g Input, Start-repeating

50h Output, Start-repeating relay

51 DC voltage at rectifier

51e DC voltage at with choke coil for driving

56a High beam, indicator lamp

56b Low beam

56d contact

57 Side-marker lamp: mopeds. Abroad also trucks, etc.

57a Parking

57L Parking lamp, left

57R lamp, right

58 Side-marker tail lamps, license-plate and instrument-panel lamps

58b Tail-lamp for single-axle tractors

58c Trailer assembly for single-conductor tail-lamp with fuse in trailer

58d instrument-panel lamp, tail-lamp and lamp

58L Side-marker lamp,

58R Side-marker lamp, right; lamp

ALTERNATOR (magneto,

59 AC voltage, output, rectifier,

59a Charging armature, output

59b armature, output

59c Stop-lamp output

61 Alternator charge-indicator

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