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Tech. Center = VW Tech = Topic started by: on October 26, 2008, 10:06:30 pm

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: ASBug on October 26, 2008, pm

Welcome to the Kermy Qustions I will be posting LOTSA here. If you have any responses, helpa fella out.

1976 Westfalia Campmobile 1970cc type 4 engine (I believe) all the FI stuff there, VERY ROTTEN HOSES.

101,800, Refab engine put in at

Questions:

#1) Any one have any idea why I open the rear hatch?

-I the correct key, and I can feel the button doing something, but the will not release.

#2) How does one the niffty wood panel inch thick) with out it. Those little black are in tight and I feel that I am to destroy the wood if I keep

#3) Is it possible to pull the gas tank the engine in? It sure looks one could do that if he removed all the stuff.

#4) does anyone an extra push button for a cabinet handle?

I am missing

#5) is it normal for the radio to work if the switch is off? It kinda sence, but I am just curious.

just any proane place my tank?

Updates — All is working with the exception of the I have been running the on the plug in and have a little to do to the wire posts at the secondary to test the battery charger. works, there was propane in the from 6 years ago.

is just about it.


Thanks fo the Want to get this thing for some camping.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 27, 2008, 01:18:18 pm

I answer them all, but what I know:

3) I’ve it’s possible to pull the with the engine in, but I don’t It might be more work and than just dropping the And if you’re replacing all the fuel anyways, dropping the engine be a good idea.

www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=2434

5) probably how the PO wired it up. There’s no accessory position in the ignition so when the key is on, so’s your There’s a good chance you burn up your points the key on, so a lot of people just wire up radio to an always-on 12V source, so can run it without the key in.

The horn is tricky, it’s not up like you’d expect. wired up hot all the time, and when you the button it connects the ground, the circuit. The steering column is part of the circuit, and at the bottom a tab that the horn wire to. Most of the time this comes loose or the tab breaks

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Post by: ASBug on October 31, 11:49:41 am

Thanks Russ,

Questions:

7) Is there a wireing for the Westfalia part of my camper?

I had 3 red that were loose: 1) guage red with white that goes to the data near the main battery. 2) a red line that ran to the relay is mounted high on the side of the bay door near the auxillary 3) A large Guage red with 4 Dark Red or Brown lines goes along the bottom of the bay and disappears under the filter Any way I hooked these upt to the hot wire and nothing happened. They like they hadn’t replaced when the PO replaced the cables

I also have a of sm guage brown wires, with spost and some out that appear to go no where. is also a sm guage white comming out of the the same wire cover. This comes out under the data port on the main battery side of the bay. They appear not to onto the central ground is there, as there are only 2 and they are occupied.

8) If I pull the pump is it just a matter of it up to a battery 12v to see if it’ll pump. want to make sure I don’t fry it.

9) Is there a way to check the before I sink $150 fuel hoses?

This is I am seeing:

-$350 for new carbie set up. VS. for correct Hose/clamps/filter + (if bad) $100’ish (on the samba I have a 1978..) + used fuel $80 off the samba. So if the fuel pump and are …, I would … on using the carbie set up.

— I that this will not some happy, but I am just here.

Thanks for any info you may have.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:17:03 pm

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Post by: Ret.Bugtech on October 31, 12:19:10 pm

I would question any electrical stuff sold You need the wiring diagram for year. VW changed little every year. I know I would do.

I had to work on stuff this everyday when I was at the Not anymore Thank God. roll:

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:21:07 pm

Secondary is working the fridge, and I am able to it’s charge from the and able to charge it with the

The relay that connects the to the primary battery is pretty at the terminals, I replaced 3 of the female ends, if it is bad is it available. I assume it is to let the secondary battery charge off the I’ll try to get a part # off the relay. It has 5 wires on the bottom of it and is where the battery grounds to the frame.

Post by: ASBug on October 31, 12:32:19 pm

Quote from:

I know what I would do. roll:

And what would you do?

I am toward the carbie.

I have a 1600 DP type 1 that I had slamming in there, but this is an and I am not sure that it’ll up.

And the 2L that is in it has like 14 K miles on it being professionally rebuilt that was 18 yrs ago. )

I can still be but I am really wanting this to run sooner rather than

Thanks,

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 31, 2008, 12:35:32 pm

I have the wireing diagram for a 1976 bus from the net and have plotted it out on a D drawing that is 2′ X and it has NOTHING about the wires I was questioning. Thant makes me that these are all Westy

Title: The Kermy Questions — and updates, Lotsa

Quote from: ASBug

8) If I the Fuel pump is it just a of wireing it up to a battery 12v to see if it’ll Just want to make that I don’t fry it.

If it’s out of the you can indeed hook it up to 12V and you should it kick on. If it’s in the bus, the key in the on position, take the top of the AFM off and move the arm from the metal tab on the side. You also hear it kick on.

9) Is there a way to check the Brain I sink $150 into hoses?

I wouldn’t worry the brain. They’re solid electronics, and there’s not even any test procedures for them. the Bentley says suspect the ECU is bad after testing every component. I have an extra they’re always overpriced on The

Quote from: ASBug

is what I am seeing:

-$350 for new set up. VS. $150 for correct Hose/clamps/filter + (if Brain $100’ish (on the samba I found a 1978..) + used pump $80 off the samba. So if the fuel and brain are …, I would on just using the carbie set up.

I know that this not make some happy, but I am researching here.

I also a couple of extra fuel they need to be tested I also have a brand new one as a backup as well. I think the relay would fail the fuel pump or the ECU anyway.

Go whatever you’re more with, for me that’s FI. If you go with a setup, consider duals. perform a lot better than a center mounted deal.

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: Russ on October 31, 2008, pm

I don’t know much Westfalia wiring. Mine’s a camper, so I don’t have a or dual battery to worry Here’s some wiring I found:

www.type2.com/dakhlia/CIRCUITS/westwiring_us1.gif

www.type2.com/dakhlia/CIRCUITS/westwiring_us2.gif

I found this homemade one says it’s for a ’79. know how similar it is to your though.

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/bus-79-westy.jpg)

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 31, 2008, 05:21:59 pm

WOW

U R Da Man!

I think that the you have referenced will be the to the questions that I have

I am very interested in checking my pump tommorow.

If it’s in the with the key in the on position, take the top of the AFM off and the arm away from the metal tab on the You should also hear it on.

Question #10) what the is an AFM?

Thanks.

I will sink a Ben and a half into the system next Monday.

If my pump is bad, will you me one of yours?

Thanks.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 31, 2008, 05:33:32 pm

AFM is the air meter. It’s on top of the air filter to the top and of the engine, it’s the big black box. The AFM draws in measured of air into the intake and uses it as one of its parameters for the fuel injection. a little door is held with a spring. As air is drawn in, it the door open, which is to a little arm that pushes a across a resistive track. The ECU can how much air is going in by sending a voltage to the AFM and measuring how many (resistance) it gets back. You be able to pry the plastic cover off the top your fingers.

The reason test works is because you start the engine, the double kicks in and powers the fuel as long as the door inside the AFM is Once it shuts, it contacts the and cuts off power to the pump, to gas from pumping in the event the stalls if you’re in a wreck, for Of course, this also your double relay is too.

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/2569819096_6705c06b7c_o.jpg)

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/2568993153_9d0dee0f84_o.jpg)

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: ASBug on October 31, 2008, pm

I do not want to repete myself,

But

I saw that little plastic lid on the of the flter housing, then I saw the PO had siliconed it down. So pulling it off is to be a problem.

I am going to pull the FP off and check it.

11) Where is the Double that you mentioned?

I am numbering questions because I am trying to get it in 20 questions or less.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on October 31, 2008, 06:24:16 pm

The relay is in the left hand of the engine compartment, mounted to the It is, quite literally, two relays in one metal (or plastic) housing. One connects to the bus’s electrical and the other connects to the FI wiring When you engage the starter one side of the relay closes and power to the fuel pump. the engine is started and the key is moved to the running position, the other kicks in and keeps the supply of going to the fuel pump, as as the door inside the AFM is open.

I have ordered the correct 7mm and have removed the fuel I cleaned all the varnish off of the OUTSIDE of the It must have had a drippy on the inlet side. The pump click, and then nothing. I and cleaned and cleaned and sprayed the and then put a hose with a cup of car cleaner on the inlet side. I the hose and hit the juice. Same click and then nothing. about 4 hits of the juice, it primmed and pumped. I pumped 2 from one can to another and no hickups. I that I have ressurected the pump. Once I get all the hoses and the pump installed, I’m to change the oil and filter and attempt to it up.

I am hoping that it’ll purr..

We’ll see.

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: ASBug on November 09, 2008, pm

OK,

It is time for another rousing of name that wire.

The below shows 2 runs of one is a pigtail that has 2 pale or white wires and a bare that go up into a loom. The has a round head and has a radius’ed running up the length of the plug.

The loom has 2 long brown and with silver dots. is also a white or yellow comming out as well. When I see I think Ground to body.

of these appears to have attached lately.

Any heads up on would be appreciated.

With the of the round three hole all the wires have a standard female plug on them.

in advance for the help.

KC.

www.volksfolks.org/img/oldfiles/sany2173.jpg)

The Kermy Questions Thread and updates, Lotsa Fun!

by: Russ on November 09, 2008, pm

www.ratwell.com/technical/TDCMarker.html

You can most likely cut it or wrap it up nicely and secure it. And good you got the fuel pump again. When I get back dig through mine and test so we’ll at least have spares.

Title: The Kermy Thread — and updates, Fun!

Post by: ASBug on 10, 2008, 05:10:52 pm

Close, and it alot like it, except he and has a photo of a male plug and is a female plug.

Title: The Questions Thread — and Lotsa Fun!

Post by: on November 10, 2008, 08:41:54 pm

www.vintagebus.com/wiring/defs.html)

Terminal Designations from DIN Standard 72 552) The designations do not identify the conductors, device with different designations can be connected at the two ends of conductor. If the number of terminal is not sufficient (multiple-contact connections), the are consecutively numbered using or letters whose representations of functions are not standardized.

IGNITION

1 coil, ignition distributor, low

Ignition distributor with two electrical circuits

1a to ignition breaker I

1b to ignition contact II

2 short-circuit terminal (magneto

(Polarity reversal possible at 32-33)

49a Output

49b Output, turn-signal circuit

49c Output, turn-signal circuit

STARTER

50 control (direct)

50a Output for control

(Series-parallel battery

50b Starter control with operation of two starters with control

50c Input at starting for starter I

(Starting relay for control of the engagement current parallel operation of two starters)

50d at starting relay for starter I

relay for sequential control of the current during parallel of two starters)

50e Input, Start-locking

50f Output, Start-locking relay

50g Start-repeating relay

50h Output, relay

ALTERNATOR

51 DC voltage at

51e DC voltage at rectifier with coil for daytime driving

56a beam, high-beam indicator

56b Low beam

56d Headlamp-flasher contact

57 lamp: motorcycles, mopeds. also cars, trucks,

57a Parking lamp

57L Parking left

57R Parking lamp,

58 Side-marker lamps, tail license-plate lamps and instrument-panel

58b Tail-lamp changeover for single-axle

58c Trailer plug-and-receptacle assembly for tail-lamp cable with in trailer

58d Variable-intensity instrument-panel tail-lamp and side-marker lamp

58L lamp, left

58R Side-marker right; license-plate lamp

(magneto, generator)

59 AC voltage, rectifier, input

59a Charging output

59b Tail-lamp armature,

59c Stop-lamp armature, output

61 charge-indicator lamp

Interesting



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