Troubleshooting / common fixes Javalins-s Blog — Volkswagen Golf Mk3

28 Янв 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Troubleshooting / common fixes Javalins-s Blog — Volkswagen Golf Mk3 отключены
Volkswagen Golf Mk3

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Troubleshooting / fixes

This topic up again and again on forums… typically are called “cutting “no tick over” or the most type “car problems,

So here are my basic steps to a Golf MK3. I’ve not on the VR6 or the diesel’s, so these steps are the 1.8 GL and 2l GTI mostly – but applicable to the 1.4 and the 1.6. basic steps are the first to check, and the most likely to be wrong before delving expensive parts changes, or No harm is done by doing the steps, nor are they particularly

These basic steps are for the reasonably competant car DIY’er. If not comfortable doing them – DONT! I’d always suggest a or Bentley’s workshop manual for

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic. This is the of my knowledge from a few courses, a lot of and some trial and error!

The ;

1) Is an error light on the dash Oil pressure light? If so resolve problems first. Get the codes – VAG (VCDS) com for the VW’s – might an area to start looking at. often than not on the older (aka mk3′s) – no codes

2) Sparkplugs. Look on NGK’s for your model – order the web, or Halfords…

Symptoms: (engine sounds like a misfire at low rev’s, bad engine bad fuel consumption, etc. them with the engine (or you can strip out the plug seats a hot head), and fit the new ones by hand before tighting so you don’t thread them! NGK parts

3) HT leads.

Symptoms: as above. are silly expensive (£20 per 5 required!) – best non OE (Original parts are sold from GSF Car Part number is “92631F” “IGNITION LEAD SET-BQ G3 GTI 8V”.

4) Distributor cap arm.

as above again – all related. Go to VW and get the not expensive. When you change be careful to put the leads back in the order(do it one at a time), and be extremely to put the arm and cap back in exactly the same Consult a workshop manual for references here!

5) Air filter. and change if required.

Symptoms: engine, and poor MPG

6) Oil Breather Check that the pipes the engine block to the air intake are You can just take them off and them. Check them for and cracks too.

Symptoms: Can stalling and rough running.

7) Throttle body clean. The body’s can get gunked up – enough to the car idle’ing due to lack of air flow the throttle butterfly is closed. Get carb cleaner and a toothbrush….

RubJonny here who explains it – The later AGG/ADY doesnt one [ISV], instead the idle is by a stepper motor in the throttle this is why on the later cars a throttle body causes the stepper motor puts the car ‘idle’ position, but its all blocked up crud so the expected amount of air get past, so stall.

Symtoms: Bad stalling at idle

8 ) “Vacuum” The later model Golfs use an also called MAF or AMM (air-mass-meter), to the incoming air volume. If there are air after the sensor, the engine not be happy. Disconnect the pipes and check for holes/splits/wear etc.

stalling, misfiring, general running and poor MPG

9) Battery, Check all the connectors are connected, no damage. Check the battery ( 12.5v engine off) and are tight.

Symptoms: Hard cutting out, general

10) Oil filter change. No direct but keeps the engine in good order, cool, etc.

steps…

OK so you’ve done the basics… And it doesn’t work…

11) Relays… The ECU and pump relay are known with the mk3′s. Both can running issues / cutting out ECU is relay no. 30 and the Fuel pump is no. Check the parts page on site for the VW part numbers.

Volkswagen Golf Mk3

12) temp sensor… Easy to and cause of engine running problems. Symptoms are engine doesn’t idle happily, lumply but when driven performs well. Couple of places they are located: on the – in the top hose at the front of the engine to the radiator, for the 16v’s to the right in the hoses there.

13) Grounds. the car and turn everything on – lights, fans etc. Measure the between the engine block and the negative terminal. Should be 0.5v. Switch the engine off changing anything. Check the grounds on the front of the engine – should be clean and tidy. the main ground cable the negative post to the engine and chassis.


14) Thermostat. Can be related to in that a stuck thermostat can as an engine that doesn’t up to temperature. For reference the Golf warmup to 90 degrees (C) within of reasonable driving – summer or Should never stay 90 for long. Worth doing temp sensor and t’stat your there – as underheating or could be either.

15) Ignition Coil. These often die, but obviously can.

Symptoms; the engine cut out and/or start misfiring or lack power at low RPM. A coil can show up as an ignition – see steps 2-4 above. Before check the primary and secondary and the supply coil voltage and

16) Airflow meter – if you have one – be on the airbox pipe between the and the intake manifold. Typically Siemens or Hitachi if memory An interesting test is to remove it and the two sensor wires inside with electrical contact Let it dry then refit. If problem then replace the sensor. VW these Air Mass Meter and they are an exchange part. name for the part is a MAF (Mass Air meter). Can be tested with a too – but I found it difficult to see subtle Try this too.

Symptoms: running, can cause loss of at idle or lumpness at low revs and of power at high RPM depending on

Advanced steps….

Final – best in conjuction with a garage, as these steps can issues not performed correctly. if there are major engine then you’ll probably a garage to resolve it for you anyway. As consult a workshop manual

17) Crank/Cam sensors. These the ECU where the engine is – and give it the for injection and ignition. The wires get over time and with the sensor the wires can get burn’t with oil engine temp. Here. To check the cam – check the from the dizzy. For the Crank get a and look behind the oil filter and see if you can see the and the wiring. Issues: Cutting lumpy power at low rev’s, MPG etc.

18) Ignition timing. On the this is checked with the off – i.e. static timing. you are checking that with the in TDC that the distributor is pointing at the place. This allows the to vary the timing as it warms up and is load. You don’t need a light. See steps 17 and 18 from But don’t take your car – as he’s changing his water and timing belt! All you need to do is: the drivers side front off, take the top cambelt off and turn the wheel with the off but in gear until it lines up as Check the green plug in the gearbox for the crank maker and check the dizzy possition as Re-assmbly is reverse of taking it

19) Lamda sensor. Ditto but testable on a multimeter. Worth the heater element is working Common issues as above. A set of is very useful for changing the

20) Compression test. Easy to do and show any serious mechanical within the engine – i.e. rings, valve damage, gasket, bad (mechanical as apposed to timing.

21) Oil pressure test. fix anything unless you have the low oil light on – which could be the sensor. But if your in this worth checking you have oil

Thanks for reading…

Volkswagen Golf Mk3

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