6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversions — Volkswagen 1200

15 Июн 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи 6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversions — Volkswagen 1200 отключены
Volkswagen 1200

US VW’s had 6 Volt systems up the 1966 model year. it’s desirable to convert cars to a 12 Volt system to brighter lighting, better or in order to add modern sound Of course, if originality is a concern, you want to keep the old 6 Volt working.

This article into what’s needed for the and pitfalls to watch out for.

what’s needed for a typical

12V Generator or Alternator (and regulator)

You also need the oil to fit either Generator or Alternator.

are available for Alternator conversions have all the hardware.

Present-day are internally regulated, so there is no

about getting the right

You may need the late-style fuel with an alternator conversion. pump is angled in such a way it makes room for the alternator. The accelerator pump linkage can be a too as it will interefere with the Some folks grind a hunk out of the alternator casting or the carb on a spacer block. is to simply flop the linkage down (this is what VW

Other 12 Volt items you may

12V Coil (and condensor).

12V cut-off solenoid for carb 12V choke).

12V Wiper motor (or reducing kit).

12V Horn.

12V signal flasher.

12V Headlight (’66 only; earlier had a foot dimmer switch).

12V ( ALL of them; don’t forget the lights and the interior light).

12V Radio.

The starter motor is problem. You can’t just in a 12V starter.

Here’s the reason:

the advent of the 12 Volt system in VW changed the number of teeth on the from 109 to 130. This the flywheel bigger in diameter (by .160). That meant the pinion gear on the starter, also meant reducing the of the starter pinion shaft, meant changing the pinion bushing in the bellhousing! They reduced the bore in the bellhousing for the The pinion shaft was reduced .491 to .432 and the bore in the went from .652 to (These numbers are approximate; use them for machining stock.)

folks leave the 6V starter in and run it on 12V. It will survive for a surprisingly long time if you the duration of cranking short. You can the solenoid on the starter for a 12V unit, if That will lower the drawn by the solenoid.

In most situations, if you’re the original 1200/1300 engine, the old 6 Volt starter is the best way to go.

If putting a later 1600 (or engine in, you must either on a 6 Volt flywheel or change to a 12 starter.

If you do decide to use a 12V starter, you to use the 12V version of the flywheel and machine out the bellhousing for the larger diameter.

NOTE: The 6 Volt flywheel fit on the 1600 crank but the later 12 flywheel won’t fit the earlier crank! Be sure to check the end-play if you swap flywheels.

If you do the starter, you must also the pinion bushing in the bellhousing.

the engine out, it’s to tap the old bushing out from the engine Special replacement bushings are to use a 12V starter on an old 6V bellhousing and also to be to use a 6V starter on a newer 12V bellhousing. Be to get the correct one.

If going to a 12 starter, try to find one from an car. These didn’t use a in the bellhousing. These starters are more powerful.

Clutches and pressure plates:

issue isn’t directly to a 12 Volt conversion but it often up. Beginning with the ’71 the throw-out bearing was completely On earlier cars (both and IRS), the throw-out bearing was onto the shaft with 2 clips and the bearing was free to on its stubby pins.

The new bearing is firmly anchored by new clips and is by a guide sleeve which through the center of the bearing.

The now has a wide thrust surface into it. This eliminated the for the thrust ring on the pressure

If you try to mix the new bearing with the old pressure or vice versa, it won’t and you’ll have trouble the cable or may damage the clutch or shaft.

Pressure plates for use with throw-out bearing.

So, if you’re a later (1600) engine an early car, you may have to the pressure plate with an one which has the thrust ring.

plate used with throw-out bearings.


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