BMW motorcycle Fuel Filters Petcocks fuel caps — Volkswagen 307

19 мая 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи BMW motorcycle Fuel Filters Petcocks fuel caps — Volkswagen 307 отключены
Volkswagen 307

Fuel Filters, Gas Caps, Tanks Seats,

Fuel Gas Flow Amounts; choke marking on clam-shell models;ETC.

© Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

in general:

Petcocks are fastened to the by right and left hand both on each petcock, the tank.

That is, as you rotate the nut CW (facing from below), tightens the nut to the tank while at the time it brings up the petcock.

The large nut has to be engaged the proper onto the petcock, BEFORE it upwards to begin to engage the amount of tank threads. You have to fiddle with a few times, until you get the right of petcock and nut threads assembled, to the tank fastening process.

BMW has numerous petcocks, but there are TYPES of petcocks normally for our airheads. All except the /5 bullet are rather easily re-buildable. this means that you some knurled or slot nut at the area (after removing a trim cup, if it is there on version), and you can replace a gasket might be bad, or clean and silicon grease the moving You then have a much operating petcock. On some are one or two dimpled discs, which can be with a shaped punch, hit, for a better detent These discs have a tab. They confuse folks, so take notice of how as you take things apart. You CAN it out, if you forgot to take

There is a version with a you need to make, I will get all these versions in this more or less anyway.

of all the petcock’s except the early /5 type are similar in INternal some variances, but the basics are the perforated discs. Early /5 different, the rotating handle gas flow from one or another

NOTE: Some have able to force-twist the /5 Everbest apart for repairs.

NOTE: is a link to a parts kit:

Here is a link to a guy with an store. He can, I think, yours; or, has cork gaskets, Where he has some information on how to rebuild one. The is finding the article. Vetch’s is generally not set-up for internal that are easy to get to.

Here is a to Bing Agency’s petcock useful for the photos, etc. BMW prices may be LESS.

Here is a of the original slash-5 bullet

NOTE! On these /5 bikes the above petcock, the CHOKE tends to rub

the underside of the bullet That cable can, and been known to wear the

petcock! I suggest you add a piece of hose over the cable it might rub the petcock.

These /5 petcocks, on the engine side of the look something like a large tapered round They are snapped together, and it is to take them apart breaking them. This CAN be SOMEtimes. They have an removable nipple at the bottom, of which is a small fuel Because they are the Classic /5 you MIGHT want to TRY to overhaul

Repairing one is a bit time consuming, but you can the classic look of your /5.

You nothing much to lose, as you can substitute a later petcock, so is a way to go about it:

The early /5-style of is press-assembled, and staked. To disassemble it, you trim away the body of the crimp area. Do NOT remove material in that trimming. put the HANDLE of the petcock in a soft vise, and pull and twist the and it will come apart. You need some 1/8 thick to finish the overhaul job. auto-parts stores have You could use a piece of gasket etc. You will have to cut the to fit, and then SILICONE it, roll it sort of cylindrical, it into the body. seam side. install squarely. the removed plug part and it. it will take considerable to do this. Now you need to crimp the so it cannot come apart on its After that is done, the handle (fair amount of probably needed) to ON position. down the main tube the cork, and the outlet too. out the cork dust. Repeat for the position tube and outlet. out, and reinstall.

NOTE: The straight type petcock early-on after the bullet is no longer available from BMW


ALL the petcock styles the bullet nose /5 type are easy to take apart, and repair . typically this is because they have to either leak or are stiff

There are two types of GERMA and a couple of other types Some versions have screens. For the IN-TANK tall type, a separate sealing is used at the screen bottom it fits into the top of the petcock and it is to replace that old screen the later bonded-metal-washer style that BMW offers. NO separate washer is then used. The you want to replace the early screen is that it CAN let debris where the screen meets the base. and re-forming the roundness of the where it fits into the was also typically necessary the screen was removed. Stated y ou had to ‘form’ the lower end of the screen a proper round shape, insert the screen a bit into the washer, then assemble, sure the screen still fit the recess in the petcock top area, and attach to the tank. It was a bit of a hassle to do perfectly. That type often had a spacer, usually near the top, IN side of the not a critical item if missing. The with those early is that folks simply did not pay to assembling the screen, washer, and upper cavity, and the screen did little ‘screening’ at the bottom, junk get into carburetor. BMW the design of the in-tank screen, and if you an in-tank screen, you will or should. get one with the washer metal and permanently bonded to the NO special sealing washer is that is, you do NOT reuse the old washer, you do NOT USE IT or at all.

Have clean and a good grunt on that nut. with equal being engaged. This to all petcocks when installing

Most other petcocks the screen IN the outlet, remove the part to see and clean it. These have the outlet straight and have a separate smaller nut at outlet, so as to remove the outlet and get to that filter. That NOT mean that all straight outlets have screens. to find out, simply the hose, and unscrew the lower see if a filter there. or a place for the previous owner could left it out. The outlet, the removable type, is called a tap or. and they are available, or were, in metal and plastic. Guess one does not like to be bent when removing a hose? Any may have a groove in the part fits up to the petcock, hidden by the that groove is where the screen fits, some of filter screens had to be hand-formed to fit right, others had stiff end

I cannot emphasize more you should ADD an aftermarket filter any petcock and the carburetor. More in this article.

TWO types of and these are generally the last versions, do not have an outlet filter, these have horizontal fuel outlets so are NO nuts on the outlets, the outlet is part of the casting. One of these look similar to the late but the threaded ring, which is cross-slotted, has NO outer edge but does have the internal ‘gasket’, with the ports to the fuel flow, made of Change that to rubber #16-12-1-235-551. GENERALLY that to rubber change is for the USA and Canada models R60/6 through There are sub-variations of these in how the outer ring appears, for pressure, or not, etc.

horizontal outlet late petcocks are HANDED, that is, is a left hand side and a hand side. This is hardly noted anyplace but by me. When installing to the fuel if you install these petcocks so the is pointing REARWARDS, then the of the fuel hose will be nicer, shorter, and the hose last longer. There are a FEW that will need the pointed forward, due to tank and variations such as smog

The working face of the inner side of the handle, must be of deep scratches.

Use faint of silicone grease on petcock the petcock will last work smoother.

Generally whilst the various inlet outlet screens should be with your yearly cleaning, there is no need to the main petcock internals action is overly-stiff. THEN, for that cork mentioned to be changed to rubber, there is nothing to do but clean, and apply grease very thinly, and Obviously you do not want so much that you plug the disc

Except for the early /5 ‘bullet’ petcock, the other types of are easily taken apart, but on the LATER, non-Germa ones, one a good grunt to push the ‘nut’ back into the to get its threads started properly. folks think this is by using a bench vise ( don’t over-squeeze!) on the NUT portion, and the petcock portion, squarely. to the nut. NUT here means the or slot part (possibly a black plastic cover, pries off).

For the petcocks or without a black plastic around the lever area, will probably apply:

remove the black cover. Pry all around, a bit here, a bit there. You can use a piece of wood or plastic, or? to marring. You might want to put the petcock in moderately hot water, and use a tool. The water will the black plastic cover, it a bit, and make it easier to and the plastic tool is less to gouge or mar the material. There been instances of loose where someone has glued it to the just be aware of this, as it may more work to get the cap off, to remove the handle and innards.

the plastic cap you will probably a sort of knurled edge must be gripped in order to the metal cap plug from the I made a special tool for about 30 years ago, find the darn thing now, but you CAN grip the edge in a and then rotate the rest of the around it. It is better if you had some JAWS, perhaps from a drill chuck, or a lathe I have found it messier, and more marks, when the petcock and remove the knurled with a tool, than to the knurled part in the vise. The outer cap hides your but why not do the job carefully, with thoughts of not the metal?

My present method is to use two of BRASS or ALUMINUM, which is and works well with the knurling, in the vice jaws. It can be so marring the knurled ‘nut’ not occur. NOTE that it is not to see a petcock that has not been in a very long time, and has perhaps, exposed to moisture or the seacoast, and the knurled ring nut not remove, or not hardly easily. I suggest you heat the petcock to water boiling temperature, and remove it from any heat and place the entire petcock a container that has a reasonable of very thin warmed oil. You want the penetrating oil to get every part of the petcock and I the lever a bit, then let it sit for a then work the lever I do this every day for about a After that, I can usually the knurled nut in my vice, using or aluminum protective jaw facings.

versions use a ‘nut’ with and you can improvise for that. I made a

Pay attention to any indexing disc(s) and how arranged. Which side the other side, where and how the fit, which disc back first, when

Most of the time I have the rubber discs with the 4 simply in need of a cleaning the rest of the petcock too), and I reuse them, with a light. LIGHT. smear of dielectric grease (a silicone on the rubber, and all the moving parts There isn’t anything in any of books’ about overhauling AFAIK. Occasionally the dimple locates the position has worn, I just forget about it, I can when the handle is fore, up, or down! You can reset the dimples with an appropriately shaped When re-assembling, push the onto the ‘nut’, not the other way as the spring is very stiff. I do it the ‘nut’ again clamped in the vice jaws. otherwise you leather gloves or your will not like the knurling.

service the fuel tank and by REMOVING the petcocks from the You NEED to see what grunge is clean the tank, etc.

If your tank is empty, you can the large nut that holds the to the tank, with a large or other adjustable jaw wrench, or from your BMW tool They can be tight. As you face the from the side of the motorcycle, the wrench to the left to loosen.

As much earlier in this that large nut tightens the to the tank and at the same time it has a thread on the petcock. Thus, assembling to the tank, you start the nut in an estimated position on the petcock. The is to END UP with about equal of tank and petcock threads engaged.

**** Once in a great while I hear someone with the wrong on how the petcock works. As a general for all plumbing and piping. flow when the handle points in the of the pipe, NOT when at 90° to the pipe. petcock MIGHT NOT be marked ON, RES (reserve). It MIGHT be marked AUF and ZU. be advised that AUF does NOT OFF. AUF here means tank portion is ON! This is not as as you may think! ZU means OFF.

when the handle lever is the main tank is being when upward you are using the tank and reserve, and when you stop the fuel from HORIZONTAL IS OFF!

Some books are WRONG on the position of the for the choke (enrichener) ON CLAMSHELL AIR MODELS. That means When the clamshell handle is the choke is OFF. When the is downwards from horizontal, the points in the direction of extra richness. towards the carburetor. had this backwards! Clymers information has obviously caused with starting and running.

are two tiny diameter plastic or pipes straws of UNEQUAL going upward from the into the tank. Once in these are replaced due to cracking on the ones or they are broken, The TALL one is for the regular main outlet, NOT the RES outlet. The short one is tall enough to keep rust and water and other from getting into the on the RES position. SOME have it, by half is OK, it is NOT OK to remove it entirely. You hardly gain much usable fuel, and you will get crap into things, the petcock and maybe the carburetor.

the petcock is turned to the off, position, both tiny are closed off from gas flow. the petcock is in the main tank ON position, fuel can flow the tall pipe until no is above its level. Once the in the tank (on THAT side for two tanks) is at or below the tall level, you get no more fuel that petcock in that ON position. Putting the handle on RES will start drawing the reserve portion of the tank, the straw on that petcock, on side of the tank on two petcock Thus if you wanted to, you could run on one main (down), until the runs that side dry on the then turn the other to main (down) position, and use two more RES (reserve) positions. Up to you how you use the If you have a one petcock model, you less options.

The actual of the petcock ‘straws’ themselves is not the between all models. The dimensions I here are PROUD OF THE SURFACE THE IS PRESSED INTO!

The straws can be or plastic. The diameter of the straws is 0.215 (5.46 mm), but varies a bit. You can usually use copper tubing available at shops. If you need to, sand the end diameter of the metal straw you and SLIGHTLY chamfer the down very end. both for in assembly and proper fit. The length (proud of the surface) of the straw, is 0.935 (23.75 and 3.27 (83 mm) for the TALL straw. you CAN shorten the short straw and a SMALL amount of usable My advice is to NOT eliminate that straw, certainly not below 3/8 of the metal. You will need to add a amount to these various for the straw itself, as they are the petcock.


For tank capacity, see your book. Understand that the amount of fuel is LESS the rated capacity. Few of you will be, or fill the fuel tank to the brim, where no more can be Fuel capacity is not what is in the and this particularly so on the later with the fuel restrictor flap in the tank filler When BMW publishes a fuel capacity, you ADD the tank and reserve to get the total amounts. I mention here because the literature has rather corrupted on gas tank

The two sides of most of the tanks do NOT the same amount of fuel for nor reserve positions for two petcock tanks. These are NOT big differences. I seen differences of 5 to 8 miles of for the RESERVE. I have not made measurements. You will hardly much, by shortening or removing the short straws. I am OK with a shortening, especially if you have filters below the petcocks.

For speeds I suggest BOTH be turned on, if two are available. This with possible fuel due to bubbles, etc. For an extreme example, if you were running at throttle doing a high run, and managed to get to the rated 124 mph some Airheads are rated you might need a gallon of in 7 minutes. You can measure the maximum fuel flow into the by (have fire extinguisher themselves, in the following way and this the real world situation, via own restrictions of the float needles and etc.

Put a container for fuel each carburetor, remove the bowl. Turn on both and see if you can get 16 ounces of fuel into container in 2 minutes. That is the required. Yes, a cup a minute, or, 1/4th liter.

Fuel of 350 or more cc per minute is adequate for our I suggest that you have a of 8 ounces per minute per petcock. it by removing a carburetor bowl, and the fuel flow into a Avoid sparks and fires!

to continuously flow fuel can be a venting problem (or, the fuel cap). Especially on models.


If the tank is not regularly, perhaps yearly, and if you don’t fill up after ride, or live in high area, etc. the tank may a fair amount of WATER, WILL ROT OUT YOUR TANK Water comes from the itself, and most comes inside the tank walls as the fuel and tank cools, you park the bike. This is true in high humidity where you can see dew on the tank, seat, in the morning. It is very important to the tank of water, or it WILL out at the bottom!

CLEAN THE TANK TOTALLY, at yearly. Clean the filters at the regularly; replace the aftermarket paper filters when lessens noticeably. If a fuel is very old, grungy, of sediments, etc. I recommend a high pressure car wash on the tank insides, then the tank and dry it. Rust can be treated phosphoric acid mixture (or the relined, which is a HUGE chore).

It is helpful to fully before the bike sits That helps with otherwise condensing inside the on the walls that would not be by fuel. The water will into globules, fall to the and cause the metal tanks to or rot out. yes, rot, on aluminum tanks.


folks add an additional aftermarket below the stock petcock. I DO that you DO THIS. Sintered types are OK, as are paper types. types do very little as your petcock already has a That also applies to screens, which do only slightly more. I prefer the types, others prefer the metal bodied internal element types. I like the Napa 7-02323 filter; but it is The Fram G4164 will fine too, and both are the right size for most Be careful with the plastic it is easy to crack the throat of The FRAM is NOT made as nicely as the filter, the Fram has less not well supported internally. has a 7-02357 that is smaller, ‘adequate’ for dual petcock The really teensy-tiny small filters with the pleated elements are not so good, and CAN have problems. Slightly larger are mostly OK. These plastic filters work best but are OK horizontally, but have less and vibration strain on the plastic if vertically. DO NOT fail to replace filters now and then and do NOT fail to the tank, and clean the petcock now and then.

The Napa 7-02323 and are similar, and are actually replacements for Volkswagen filters, VW ZVW262101. but are used on many small engines, and so on.

A.C. filter will work, but it really is too its diameter is nearly 2; over-all almost 5, and its stubs are single with bump, and 1/4. I against this size you have to use it, or have a very tank.

NOTE: The Fram, and a few has a nice feature. The input and stubs are dual diameter so fit whatever hose you are using.

The 7-02323 is very similar to the cheaper Napa 3011. The is part of the Napa Marine of products, and has MORE pleats, and better made. The 3011 has pleats. Either will fine.

SOME filters arrows pointing in the direction of flow. Sometimes filters do not markings for which end is input, end is output. The input end, goes towards your tank petcock, is the end that the OUTER area, the output end is the to the filter INsides; but this is NOT and mostly just affects how the filter lasts, from (inside versus outside, has less effective diameter), and tank liner flaking.

For whatever reason, Napa, and see has changed its numbering system If trying to see a photo or? of the Napa if their search engine not display a 7-02323, try entering it as and it may come up as SME-702323 or even Same for the 702357. Don’t about the 3011.

Note: filter numbers that fine are: Baldwin Wicks 33-027; Those two are filter bodies; there is the Wixom 33011.

Reasonable aftermarket i n-line filters do a better job than the in-tank which is ALSO NEEDED; purpose is to capture LARGE junk. The aftermarket external are a big help because it takes anything as thick as a human in the carburetor to cause problems. A few filters have cleanable Note that if fuel decreases enough, your will run lean and potentially might stumble some, and a running engine can be harmful to bank account.

If you install filters, do carry some piece of hose, clamps, or YOU need, to enable you to remove a if it should crack and leak, or, you some other problem. be careful to do a neat installation, and about the long term. You do not a faulty installation allowing leaks. In other words. you use these aftermarket filters or consider what might 300 miles from nowhere, if you a leak in a rubber hose. or a leaks, breaks, whatever. a piece of hose, perhaps a perhaps a way to plug one side if you a dual petcock tank.

h oses:

Sometimes you can pull the off with your hands excessive force, but often really stick well. The BMW hose, whether the old silver stuff or the newer black gas line, is slightly less in diameter than American line. and, being fits the cross area of the . All fuel hose of any type, but rubber types, tend to to the outlet nipple pipes making a good fluid and no hose clamp is needed, with SOME aftermarket filters. Do NOT use ANYTHING but GAS/FUEL Some folks put a pair of onto the hose near the and give a mighty pull. tends to tighten the hose. as it the rubber, which is reinforced fibers. just like the old finger-pull toy. It also can or break the plastic outlets. to use a very broad flat of some sort and push the at its end, whilst gently on it. If replacing the hose, cut it off. I got anal about all this and made a tool to remove Was just a U-shaped piece of Another idea is to put a large ‘fender washer’ onto the nipple before pushing the onto it. that way, removing the hose, you both on the washer whilst gently on the hose. and the hose almost easily comes off. no finger toy problem here. BMW not use fuel line clamps on

The best fuel hose I ever tested is Tygon F-4040A. 3

One that did NOT my tests (various solvents, components, ETC. short and long term) is Masterflex FDA 96412-D. VITON of any sort is NOT by me.


One should regularly the carburetor bowls and empty out, even flush the jets, pipe, etc. something STRONG, like B-12 CARBURETOR AND CHOKE and replace the bowl gasket now and I recommend emptying the bowl of water accumulates there, few months. Junk can rise and get the idle pilot jet, has an exceedingly small hole. and and water can mix and tend to plug the corner well bottom and then the enrichener (on the CV carbs) work properly. A bad bowl especially at the CV enrichener down area, can make your (choke) work BADLY. The jet assembly in the CV carburetors has a tendency to black grunge. remove the assembly and clean it now and then. and be upon reassembly not to overtighten, nor the assembly against the needle Parts fit properly only one


Fuel and venting methods for the fuel varies by year/model, but it is common to Airheads run out of fuel. stumbling, power, etc. and the problem be the tank vent. or the cap. is provable by loosening the cap and hearing a of air entering (if you CAN hear it), and the then runs OK within 15 Stumbling from this problem usually happens more quickly with a filled tank and also higher speeds. Fuel cap seals are replaceable. So is the black on the later caps.

From the /7 BMW changed to a screwable, removable, cap. They are NOT all alike! ones that look may not be, and this goes even with foreign country bikes! My coverage here is for USA caps, but most applies to

The caps with the BMW emblem on top may not be the internally, which affects how you go drilling/locking/ETC.

The late 1977 probably as late as 1979 in instances) gas caps are changed in so that they allow air to to the inside of the tank, but fumes are not to pass to the outside of the tank. To this, there are valves into the cap. These of caps could have The symptom of this particular problem is when the bike running very lean, may and seem to run out of fuel, and this happens after some on the highway, the time can be shorter if the was rather full to start OPENING the cap (unscrewing it a bit) ‘fix’ the problem within 15 and this ‘test’ is nearly for a bad cap vent. The cap can be modified to fix the problem Put it upside down on your Drill AWAY from the any direction, about 1/2 from the Thus the hole you will is off-center. Drill, 3/32, the bottom of the cap, through the shell, and continue drilling go through the air space, and drill the softer material that you feel you are drilling through. it is 1/8 thick. Drill through it, and stop drilling. Clean out the cap as you can of drilling swarf. Replace the cap on the That’s all there is to this.

Oak uses different dimensions on than I do. His description is a bit different Oak says to mark the center, as I do. he says to use

1/16 drill and drill at a point 5/16 from the center, anywhere’s on the So, it looks like my sketch, just not drilled so far outwards. Oak the following instructions: Lightly the spot, then drill through the metal bottom. He that the drill will go into an empty space within the cap, then another object inside the That is the lock and vent It is plastic. Drill further that, CAREFULLY, until you the drill has gone through the internal plastic layer 1/8). THEN STOP.

No which procedure, blow out the cap compressed air and maybe a solvent. The key will still work.

that these caps are NOT to be like car caps! AVOID the bike caps to the ratcheting when tightening them!!

The caps are not the same on the last ; these had a venting system for the tank that vented, via controlled valves, the tank to the crankcase. The caps had both a and vacuum release built-in. the problems with caps unable to be removed is similar all these SCREW caps. see section.

Rubber seal for the screw-in gas caps. This is NOT the trim ring, but the SEAL, RED (which broke after 51-25-1-453-148.

The black trim is 16-11-2-307-360. This is NOT a seal, but a piece, and it also helps rain from getting the ‘shelf’ of the tank under the cap a drain hole is).

If you are venting problems caused by a fuel cap, on one of these Airheads, that have the system (solenoid valves in the compartment, connected to the fuel etc); then, since the are $$$$ for the SHED type, and $$$ for the type, you might consider posted by Tom Cutter on the Airheads on August 26, 2013:

. take off the cap, put it upside down on the and locate the center of the cap (underneath). a 1 mm hole in the steel cap. the drill bit down about 1.5 you hit metal again, carefully through THAT metal and Voila! Instant non-shed Never have another vent problem. Tom Cutter PA

Ratcheting and unscrewing and

This is a separate section; and you NOT use the above two photos; which are for venting problems with the caps.

There are THREE types of these screw-top The earliest versions have a finish and a BMW LOGO. the later do NOT have that BMW logo on the Both caps have a plastic ‘rain skirt’, fits into a groove in the cap part. The last type of cap has and pressure valves inside, and are with those Airhead that have the fuel vented via a electric solenoid to the engine crankcase (and have positive fuel via an electric solenoid valve).

It is better to not key-lock your type fuel cap and certainly NOT TO TIGHTEN THEM TO THE RATCHETING The ratcheting is NOT the same as car type and is NOT to be used for the same purpose, on cars is to ensure they are fully! Frankly, I DO NOT understand why BMW the cap the way they did. as it is not the same as other vehicles’ ratcheting If you regularly tighten the Airheads cap to the point, you will eventually the ratcheting parts and have fun the cap. I understand you may want the cap If you insist, then tighten to just about ratcheting or one The BMW ratcheting gas caps will out and cause you problems if you insist on them a lot. The plastic pin into and out of 4 holes when you do and wears it badly. IF you wear the mechanism enough, and this IS the cap may then seem totally and just spins in place.

There are several methods of the caps when you have problem. so pay attention!

1. ANY of these can be DRILLED downwards through the and then you lock the top and bottom together with some of ‘tool’. This drilling can be with a 1/8 drill, and you then use a shank from a 1/8 pop rivet. or, a nail. If you drill in the handle or at the hinge area, the drilled will not be seen . and the cap can be left way. the only problem, if is that the lock won’t You can drill (NO electrical sparks, through the LOGO if the cap has one, or, the handle or hinge area. 7/8. or 15/16. from the of the cap is about the right distance. You can under the wide area of the and countersink the drilled area, and use a countersunk head screw as the of locking the top and bottom of the cap together. If you the cap downward, through the top, the metal, through the open and down through the lower you will need a several long drill bit. My is that you drill the cap with a size that fits a convenient nail, and you can use the nail in the cap, or use it as a new type of cap key. is NOT the drilling method shown for venting problems on the earliest of caps.

2. If your cap has the BMW LOGO, and you do NOT to drill it, you can grab the plastic with pliers, and slowly it sideways away from the keep pulling (it stretches), clear of the cap and lift and pull it comes off. You will now see in the groove that this skirt fit into, there are holes, 120° apart. a nail or piece of broken hangar wire, etc. and a bent tip end of that into one of the and lift on the cap cover, whilst turning it and pushing the wire You are ‘feeling’ for a dimpled area, and found, you have the parts locked, and can UNscrew the cap.

3. If cap does NOT have the LOGO, and you do not to drill it, the body ridge into a cover groove, and you try pulling the cover off the body.

4. One of getting the cap to unscrew, is to wrap a strong belt or rope your waist, through the cap and stand on the pegs; and, with a quite strong force, try to unscrew the cap. go too strongly on this, unless purpose is to try to break off the top portion, not unscrew the cap. I suggest you use a fair amount of force, but not type of force. you will protect the tank from With the LOGO cap, the cap has a rolled metal edge, is strong, and you might bend the before the cap pops off (that under extreme force).

5. If you can get the cap off drilling from the top) . there is another method to Drill, a hole, through the metal layer. That you drill through FROM the of the cap, and continue until you through the next layer. The of that hole is unimportant. relatively. Hole of about is OK, although smaller will work. You can now lock the sections and you have not drilled to the top of the cap.

is a hyperlink to Anton Largiader’s article on the caps; read it to your knowledge and UNDERSTANDING:

see the above largiader link; read below:

NOTE. the is rather limited. For a fuller with photos, see the BMW Riders publication called On The Level dated April 2006. has an article by Anton Largiarder is quite informative on the later caps. including information on the locks, ETC. This MIGHT also be on Anton’s read that article. and see mine:

RE-keying the fuel lock cylinders, purchasing and more.

my article #75, item #7 in that article, for more gas cap lock information:

The 1977+ fuel caps are the ones that screw the tank) create lots of at times. Here is some but you may well have to ask your BMW dealer about the present of these items. Frankly, you may to find a parts-person willing to the time with you on this, if you want to order a cap with a key matches your other key(s). It is possible, sometimes, to remove the old lock cylinder by it out and removing the bits. This has done in various ways, doing it mostly downwards, adding a sheet metal and prying the lock upwards.

Volkswagen 307

folks want their cap to have the same key as their key. This can’t be on early caps by the normal of re-keying as done with the as the fuel cap lock is a plastic I would not be surprised if BMW changes the so it CAN be rekeyed by the normal method of the body (keep pins and from flying), inserting OLD key of the new key, and filing down the pins (NOT the last, locking pin!!). then the lock unit. For the cap with a the cover is held to the body by a lip. you can undo that remove the body, and with a new pry the body out of the cover, and extract the lock cylinder assembly. By this over, you can see that you can an old lock cylinder to a new cap.

a key is in the lock, and turned, you can see a small point in a small opening in the PUSH that part with a tiny tool, and you can withdraw the key lock assembly! If the key assembly is not broken, cracked, you can clean it, lube it with light grease, and insert it your NEW cap, by aligning it and it into the cap. you MIGHT to turn the cap via a bit of force, to push it all to allow the lock to fully Once installed, it is permanent.

Some caps have ‘enhancements’. Some remove the items entirely, and plug the pipe in the starter motor Some remove the tank valve, some remove all the etc. YOUR choice. The for that system are different. and say Do not use the wrong cap, unless

The black standard cap is 51-25-2-307-125

The trim ring is not included caps, and is 16-11-2-307-360

The standard cap a lock and a key is 51-25-2-307-168

The SHED are available in both black and The black one is 51-25-2-307-140; and the chrome one is You won’t believe how costly all parts (except the ring)

A new lock cylinder is 51-25-307-166. The key not fit your other locks. The keys for the motorcycle included of a number on the key, a knockout that is; and also a small tag with the keys, with a on it. If you supply the number to the dealer, he may be to order a custom-keyed cap for you. I say because you have to have a parts person; AND, number may no longer be available BMW. Custom keyed 51-25-2-307-173. A new cap with new cylinder and 2 (obviously not keys that your other bike is 51-25-2-307-168. Caps without cylinders are no longer available; a dealer happens to have

Because the cap internal plastic wear from misuse I do NOT recommend even trying to an old cap. I would ONLY get a new custom keyed cap, will take time to and get it, or just get a new cap with whatever and keys it comes with. caps used to cost the as a cap with lock that had no keys to what you already There is also the transferring of the old you can also consider that, but the details.

TANKS, SEATS, differences, capacities, etc:

It is not at all to swap various tanks and

The /5 and /6 SEATS are LONGER than the /7

The /7 SEAT will be OK with a /5 or /6

The /7 tank can fit a /5 or /6, but modifications are needed, it is rather ugly.

There are in how the various seats mount. seats had the hinge portion to the seat, with allen and if they rust-out, can be a bear to them. making it a bear to get the off the bike. There are variations.

It is not for the area around the seat of the hinges to rot out, from accumulation. This can be fixed by up small flat plates in a U and having them welded to the bottom. This CAN be done the upholstery intact, if wet cloths are It is a good idea to drill the area of these hinges in any whether during welding or stock. to allow any accumulated to go downwards. Use antiseize compound on screws.

Don’t depend on printed information on the tank

Because BMW has a month-long vacation (the factory is closed in a year model could been produced at the end of the prior year.

In 1970 and 1971 was available a larger capacity 6.3 per BMW) gallon tank, it was orderable for the 1972 production and a few, I think, were that way for 1973.

1972 had the capacity tank, almost 1 gallon less capacity.

The and 1971 fuel caps had the at the FRONT; but in 1972 and 1973, it was at the

The 1973-1/2 (when BMW also to the long wheel base) had the underneath for the hydraulic master that appeared later, in the 1974 /6 model.

The standard 6 gallon tanks had black pads.

In 1972 the Toaster was, however, standard for the withOUT pin striping.

Early in production there were not the toaster chrome panels, but pin stripes.

Rubber pads available for the small tanks. the chrome panels were

Authorities tanks (Police) like the /6 tanks, with the pads too. but the top has a lid.

/5 have screwed-on Roundels.

BMW publishes a fuel tank you ADD the tank and reserve amounts to get the amounts. I mention this because the literature has gotten corrupted on gas tank volumes.

10/05/2003: incorporate all previous updates on the petcocks cap removal

03/30/2004: spelling typos,

03/31/2004: Final version; add filter number, minor eliminate SOME redundancy

add overhauling Everbest information.

Slight updates, some

08/26/2004: update for venting, tanks, seats

09/07/2004: add capacity information

09/12/2004: added links

10/01/2004: fix waist typographical error

update numbers, clarify and keys details

03/05/2005: extensively to have information in order, as things had been

much of the text was choppy. some comments on filters and the gas

11/09/2005: red note on Napa numbers.

03/23/2006: more on the Napa filters.

04/18/2006: for clarity, information on the gas caps; in other areas.

11/07/2006: and emphasis

11/21/2006: add roundels

02/01/2007: Remove Roundel as it will be updated and expanded in 68.

07/28/2008: Revise a lot of the article for clarity. Also add not on Anton’s in OTL.

02/01/2010: Add photos of gas cap for venting, re-arrange article and add hyperlink

11/17/2010: Add information on straws

06/01/2011: Clean up mostly for clarity reasons

Add /5 petcock sketch

04/03/2012: updates, including adding article as a link

04/04/2012: and emphasize details on cap drilling and methods and why/what

07/21/2012: Add a bit of on my testing of fuel hoses, and my of

Tygon F-4040A

08/28/2012: Add to the overhaul section. Add QR code. Google ad meta coding.

Volkswagen 307
Volkswagen 307
Volkswagen 307
Volkswagen 307


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