VW Type 1 Mileage Master MPG Engine Combo VW Parts and VW Tech from Aircooled… — Volkswagen Typ 1

7 Мар 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи VW Type 1 Mileage Master MPG Engine Combo VW Parts and VW Tech from Aircooled… — Volkswagen Typ 1 отключены
Volkswagen Typ 1

VW Type 1 Mileage Master MPG Combo

With fuel on the rise, we’ve been lots of inquiries about a VW engine to improve and maximize. article outlines Aircooled.Net’s for an MPG Long Block – we call it the Master”. This article on the components for a Mileage Master A lot of guys aren’t interested in mileage that much, but ears perk up when find out that if they this engine as we have they will have up to a 50% in power over the stock Doing that and having a 40+ mpg plant is nothing to sneeze at!

article does not address MPG issues — there is so material to cover on that that we’ll instead do article on MPG TUNING in the near ]

The primary goal of the Mileage MPG long block is to sip as little as possible. It will have power than stock, but our is not to make maximum power, we want to make it as efficient as As with most of our “Recipes”, you can from our “Recipe” a little but the more you stray the more you are to wind up with a different than what we have You can build this with Port OR Single Port either is perfectly fine. We to mention that you can do a LOT of additional to keep increasing the MPG of your But this article is intended for that needs a new engine, so are going to be building one anyways. It no economical sense to spend $7k to a 45mpg engine, if you can build one gets 35-40mpg for $3k! It take you 20 years to recover the $ via fuel savings. We are just that you need/want a new engine, and to focus more on efficiency and not power. For that purpose, we are a 1745cc engine. 76mm and 85.5mm “B” pistons.

If you do not feel in building this on your or don’t trust someone to do that for you, we now have engine combination up for sale, from valve cover to cover, on our VW Parts Store, .

CRANK, RODS, and PISTONS: Use this 74mm Crankshaft, VW Rod This crank was also in our “1800cc VW Engine Combo: How to a Big VW Engine on a Budget” article, or you can use 76mm Crankshaft, VW Rod Journals. The and pistons you use will be different, you to select the crank, rods, and TOGETHER to ensure they are You can also use 5.500″ H-beam Rods, also available in 5.5″ H-beam Connecting ; either are ok, but the H-beams cost Normally H-beams (H-beam rods) are used in engines turn over 7k RPMs, is way over anything we are going to be with this gas sipper! this crank and rod is a very combination, but the way we make it work is our Stroker 85.5mm PCs. is going to make the engine WIDTH, which will us money by eliminating expensive and custom push rods and base shims/spacers.

Another variation on this is to use our 88mm “Slip-In” Hypereutectic and Cylinder Set, but the 88mm is only available in the “A” pin height If you use the 88mm “Slip-In” Hypereutectic and Cylinder Set know that the must be bored to the 92mm PC the 88mm Piston is a “Thick style, and is very large up Also, if you want to use the 88s (as highlighted in our No Machining Engine Build ), use SCAT 5.394″ I-beam Rods, or even stock we have Race Prepped Rebuilt Rods or 5.4 I-beam Rods for these uses.  If you use “A” (designed for 69mm stroke use a 74mm stroke crankshaft, not the

This may be confusing to you, so is a recap to clarify it.

With out of the way, know that MPG engines use a heavy pulley and but we believe in going the other Heavy flywheels take to speed up, we want to speed up the car not the So we are going to use a lightened flywheel. engine uses this 8 Doweled Flywheel, you simply do not a more expensive or stronger for THIS engine. You can also use any 8 doweled flywheel (because the above are 8 doweled) a 10lb or a 8 18lb Stock Weight Chromoly Gland Nut, and run a clutch, nothing fancy.

find that the 76mm and rods, “hits” the case. freak out! Being the type, we just have to a little bit and work through our problems in our engine adventure. The is so minor, you can do this in your or even the back patio (if you it so the wife is gone! ).

Here is a of a case half that has clearanced for a 76mm crank and You will find similar you put bearings on the your crankshaft and set it in in the case to check, it WILL HIT in spots. Make SURE when you are doing this you the crankshaft all the way toward the flywheel. the flywheel is on it will pull the this way, if you have the off the crank can “float” to a position it never be run in, and you’ll be clearancing you don’t need to, and will end up twice as a result of your

Simply mark the spots hit with a sharpie and take the back out. Make the crankshaft is pushed all the way toward the When the flywheel is bolted up it hold it in this location,  you do not to clearance the wrong places the crankshaft floated toward the (where it isn’t when the is assembled and running)! Now, how you the case is up to you. You can use a Dremel but will take some because the Dremel is puny. The way to do this clearancing job is to grab a held grinder with a 4 or 5″ and work over the areas you identified with the marker. worry about making it YET, just lay the metal on the back until the crankshaft and rods clear. You’ll have the crankshaft in and out 10 times. while you do this to wear glasses because of the flying AND also remember that you are on a magnesium case. Magnesium is flammable, so make sure you the grinder moving, don’t on one spot for too long, it will get too

Once the crank is rotating in the without issue, do the other half. Once that one is put the connecting rods on the crank, and lay it into the case. The trick is to only clearance what you to. When the engine is actually the small end of the connecting rod will be “Centered” by the piston and cylinder. But we have that, and if we did we couldn’t so now what? Here’s our trick!

BANDS: Put these over the of the 4 head studs, but slipped the small end of the connecting rod. trick will center the end of the rod while you slowly rotate the to check for rod/case contact. You .030″ of clearance. Check and until it rotates without If it hits on 1 cylinder, you can assume going to hit on all 4, so clearance all 4 the same way in the relative locations. When it smooth out the sharp edges your work, and that the had before you got it! You don’t have to it yet, we are still in the “Mock Up”

Now put the PCs on (you don’t need the for this part of the job, and your deck height. You your deck height to be .040-.070″. You’ll need Cylinder Base Shims for the and 88mm Slip In PCs. the thickness that gets our height in our .040-.070″ range. If you have a deck height you can use this Deck Height Tool. You can use a dial indicator or if you are careful too! Remember, you a deck height of .060-.070″. It likely be smaller than when you mock it up, do some math and figure out which set of Cylinder Base Shims you to put between the case and cylinders to get Smaller deck heights are if you have a choice.

Next, do quick math to figure compression ratio out, we are to build this engine at a CR of 9:1 for a really efficient use of the fuel! For a 1745cc engine with deck height needs combustion chambers in the heads, as one to achieve 9:1 Compression Ratio. If we .070″ deck height, we 44.5cc in the heads for the same CR. We make the heads match the and deck height, since we are the heads last. Your is to just get the engine’s deck between .040-.070″. Get the deck within range, then we make the heads have the volume we need to get the CR dialed in.

Now you can the engine back apart and the


Connecting Rods

Pressure Plate



Off at the balance shop. We this thing to PURR, is wasted energy. This is well spent! Remember at the paybacks will be swift. your parts come clean everything and start assembly. Use Curil-T for the case and Dirko for the cylinder base .

For our camshaft, there are not a lot of good for a MPG cam. We feel that cams are designed for “power” of MPG. The biggest issues we are that most aftermarket have too much valve to be “efficient”. Lift is for power, NOT We want a gentle cam, a very mild lift, so we can use valve springs. This friction, and is super easy on Fortunately, CB Performance has just the cam we We have chosen the CB2231 it has the duration we want, and has very valve lift. Basically ANY mild cam will work SCAT C20 Camshaft is also a You could also use the CB 2229, or 2280 “Cheater Cam”. The CB Cheater Cam is what was used in the CB Motor engine article in (which we had never read this article was half

The use of these cams lets us use valve springs. which stress and friction down. We equip the heads with Chromoly Retainers for reliability the stamped steel stock are unreliable and just too sketchy. We carry an Economy Chromoly Set for those with a really budget! Courier Valve or Elephant’s Feet are also but not required, you can use stock adjusters. lash caps are optional of our conservative valve train! The reason we can do this is we are only .330″ at the valve, so we can also use push rods! The Gentle Train also allows us to use Ratio Stock Rocker or retain your stock and add Bolt On Rocker Shafts, are completely optional and certainly not for a mild build like You must get it out of your head you need “more valve so forget 1.25 or 1.4/1.5 rockers.

Volkswagen Typ 1

You can also either use a Cut Cam Gear for minimal friction, OR if you some old parts lying you can use a 36hp Cam Gear, with the 36hp Crank Gear. The gear sets have the gear pitch of the 40hp-1600cc sets, for less cam thrust. If you want every last don’t worry about cam gear selections, just use a or basic bolt-on cam gear, really not a big deal.

For our oiling use this 21mm oil pump. pumps are NOT NEEDED, and in fact a lot of pumping losses that rob HP that is better used the car through the wind. We are also to use Z-rod 10-30 Synthetic Oil. Thicker oil is just to chip away at our efficiency. Flow Filter Kit for Type 1 is a good idea, to keep the out and keep this thing for years with minimal

For cylinder heads we are using our L3 Heads. fly cut to our 46cc chamber to dial in the CR. You can also use Stock Heads, don’t be afraid to them apart and give a “fluff and buff” with a die and sanding wheel. Just the edges up. Clean it, then and lube. A good valve job is a move, if you can’t do it bring it to a guy or machinist that can!

Single Port Head follow the same cam guidelines knowing you will be running the stock carburetor, or dual carburetors. Single ports are torquey reliable engines, and will drive like a engine if you put a better flowing and a set of dual 1bbl carburetors on

For the exhaust system, in previous you had a lot of options, but for this engine you do Because we are going for efficiency, we have a 4 Into 1 Street We try to cut financial corners where we can (we are too!), but in this case the muffler has to go. You can retain stock boxes. or you can switch to J-pipes if you do not heat. You can use either a Single Pack Muffler. or our personal the Hide-a-Way Muffler. HOWEVER, if you are to use a center mount carburetor or Progressive), you must get our Pre-Heat to the header. We need as much to the intake manifold as we can get. By this we’ll be able to jet the LEAN, knowing that all fuel is vaporized, and the cylinders know they are lean! It actually burn it instead of fuel making it’s way to in the exhaust system. Heat on the is your friend! If you have carburetors, the Pre-Heat Modification m is not needed on the 4 Into 1 Street .

Ignition: An Aircooled.Net SVDA or a Pertronix SVDA Distributor are a for really wringing out top MPG. A Hyfire VI-A CDI Ignition is nice, but not required; we’ll this more in the tuning that comes later.

If you are using dual carbs, be stupid. This is a MPG engine, if you trying to wring HP out of this, MPG goals are toast and you just a bunch of your time and Focus on your goals! If you a Single Port, either run the carb or get Dual Weber If you have a Dual Port we feel you have 3 options.

1) 34-3 Dual Port This will work and believe it or not, the stock will get better MPG if you put a larger in there! This is to prevent the from turning the main on so early, we want to cruise on a on the progression circuit. We’ll this in more detail in the 2nd of the MPG series, but the Stock 34-3 Port Carburetor is fine. you must have as much as possible if you use this!

2) Progressive Weber Carburetor This allows you to run a lean on the primary barrel, but retain a Tune” on the secondary for when you it. Most progressive kits a poorly designed intake but this Deluxe Progressive Kit is

3) Dual 36mm IDF Weber, 40 IDF Weber. or Dual 36 DRLA All of these are excellent. Bigger will be too large for this MPG so are not discussed. These carburetors are the MPG carburetors.

That’s pretty it for our actual engine. The actual of this engine and the actual building techniques will be in another article, that will also be able to be to “normal” engines. Tuning mostly focus on the jetting and of the carburetor(s).

If you have any comments or feel free to give us a If we have missed something or we are not on a topic and you mention it (e-mail is we will edit this incorporating your suggestions to it even better. We also to hear from those of you who built and drive this Let us know how your build and how it works out driveability and performance for you!

We have had a lot of requests for engine from people don’t feel confident in this engine themselves, or just want to buy it! So due to those requests we have put THIS combo up for sale, pre-built valve cover to valve on our VW Parts Store, null .

for reading….Aircooled.Net

Volkswagen Typ 1
Volkswagen Typ 1
Volkswagen Typ 1
Volkswagen Typ 1
Volkswagen Typ 1

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