VW/Audi FWD Axle Replacement Raxles Inc — Volkswagen Passat B5

2 Апр 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи VW/Audi FWD Axle Replacement Raxles Inc — Volkswagen Passat B5 отключены
Volkswagen Passat B5

VW/Audi FWD Axle Replacement

not Performance type, using kits, both sides

Bob January 2013

The particular described here pertain to a VW Passat 1.8T, Manual (B5 chassis, longitudinal engine). But the is applicable to many models of VWs and including VW Golf/Jetta IV era, (A4 transverse engine), with minor variations and interpretation.


1.1 Service manual(s)

I highly Bentley service manuals for cars for doing any serious on your car. The information should be viewed as “supplemental” to in the Bentley or official VW documentation The latter can be obtained on DVD-ROMs for that are generally only for professionals, and even then, not preferred to the Bentley manuals.


Air tools are not compulsory for this but do help speed things if you have the proper impact You will need a rather impact wrench to get the axle off (e.g. IR231 or better). The tools are generally not suitable for use impact tools, except the twelve point tool used with a low torque 3/8 impact ratchet.

Whether or not you a heavy duty impact set and and impact sockets, you will a 1/2 inch breaker bar and extension a section of pipe).

You will need roughly 24 inches of entensions, a 3/8 inch and/or 1/2 ratchet perferably both with possible universal to work around occasional obstructions, while dealing the flange bolts.

You will definitely also a 1/2 inch torque wrench can achieve the higher end of torque (circa 150 ft-lbs) in order to the axle nut. A lighter 3/8 inch torque wrench is for the hex-drive nuts on the axle and probably more accurate for but you can use a 1/2 inch torque wrench 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch converter in a

A tie rod tool or ball joint will be necessary if you must the upper control arms to get existing axles out. PB or similar penetrating oil, not WD40, is either highly or necessary in this case depending on conditions of your fasteners.

Naturally you will need the normal “basics” for any job is, jack, jack stands, chalks to properly and safely the car on level ground, etc.


Plan on checking / adjusting after this job. if you completely avoid messing the suspension and have recently had done would I consider this.

Do leave yourself time to handle the unexpected rushing. If everything goes it will take more an hour except for the fastest, experienced mechanics. Two to four is a more reasonable expectation.

Do not this job if you do not take safety and seriously.

1.4 Order, Receive,

the Raxles Axles and Parts. the parts, read the given entirely, and cross-reference details the service manual re torque in particular. Where these are it is generally best to follow the However, for the final torque of the axle nuts, the Raxles given were “equivalent” and reliable if you have torque that goes to 150 ft-lbs.

1.5 Remember

to retain all the packing and back-ship sheet, as you’ll use to send back your old

2. The Process Itself

I would doing the entire process final axle nut/bolt on one side, then proceeding to the side. It does help to the steering torward the side you are working on, especially for step [4]

[1] Loosen Axle Fasteners

The step is to get the axle nuts or bolts (as applicable) loosend the car on the tires. The service manual and sense tell you that and the final torque step be done with wheels on the to minimize chance of car toppling off during sometimes large being applied.

You can use a proper socket and impact wrench for but it is also perfectly reasonable to use a bar and extension (PIPE) with the hand 1/2 inch drive

Obviously you must remove the cap or hub cap first to acess the axle usually this can be done without removing with the

With the wheels (still) on the use your breaker bar and extension to the axle nut/bolt. It is also if suitably equipped, to do this your beefy impact and proper impact socket.

Then turn by hand back to barely snug . You want this fastener off until the car is lifted per the following

[2a] Lift and Support Car

Lift/jack/chalk the car so you can remove the front then do so.

[2b] Completely Axle Fastener

Loosen the nut/bolt a bit more and push in so the itself is mobile and pushed in within the wheel bearing. completely remove the axle Set this aside but you must not it.

[2c] Re-install Some Bolts

Put three lug bolts (or so) in the brake rotor to fasten it to the bearing. Locate a robust screwdriver to be used shortly as when removing hex bolts. It is OK to have a helper depress the pedal instead, if you prefer. will be moderate for these bolts.

[3] Remove Fasteners on Flange

[3a] Set Up

Set yourself up to the bolts on the axle flange, are typically twelve point fasteners but could also be hex This means it is time for many socket extensions the given socket, along either an impact ratchet or hand ratchet.

[3b] Any Obstructions to Removing Axle

If (passenger’s side only) the heat shield and anything that may be obstructing access to the axle flange.

[3c] Remove Flange

Loosen and remove the six bolts on the end of the axle, using your and your choice of ratchet Collect these, but you will not be these fasteners either.

[4] Axles

[4a] Attempt Removal

If possible, remove the without disassembly of the upper arms (Passat B5) or other of the front suspension (others). for the Passat B5 chassis this is to the service manual. The reason for rebellion is that, if successful, save you much time and disturbing the suspension alignment. If you will merely have wasted a few minutes of effort.

It can to manipulate the steering a bit while

For the installation being described, worked quite easily on the side, but not at all on the passenger’s side. and apparently according to my Jetta IV manual this problem not arise for the transverse engine

In case this did not work for and the given axle won’t out, the backup plan is to the service manual as in

[4b] the Manual by Freeing up the Wheel Assembly

Apparently this applies if you have a front resembling the Passat B5, where are multiple control arms two fastened to the top of the wheel bearing If this does not apply your manual for your

Following details described in “Appendix of Pain”, disconnect the control arms from the top of the wheel bearing assembly, so you can the assembly forward and get the blessed out. This may still be a on the passenger’s side but becomes more feasible than doing this.

Having to do adds considerably to the effort of the but is sometimes unavoidable. The reason is on the passenger side of the longitudinal with manual transmission is insufficient “play” between the flange and the transimission, which is to get the other end of the axle out of the wheel assembly.

[5] Insert new axle

cleaning any mess in the flanges or assembly areas, insert the side axle as clearly by Raxles, and partially insert in bearing side. Fastening the new fastener lightly at this is indicated, to avoid it coming while you fasten the inner flange.

If you had to manipulate the suspension to get the axle out in step [4], the suspension to its former arrangement using new fasteners as described in of Pain” below. Remember even though this not have greatly impacted the alignment, it may have done so. So, you have alignment checked if applies, or in any case if it has been a since this vehicle had checked.

[6] Secure new axle

[6a] Lightly install the bolts

Lightly fasten the new axle bolts to the inner flange using the provided hex tool. BTW If you are using an impact for this step not encouraged do be to avoid actually torque-ing the with it; doing so is bad for proper and likely to strip the fastener.

[6b] Torgue the flange in (usual) star pattern

to given spec each in “star pattern”, which for a pattern means three of opposites, stepping by two positions in pairs.

[7] Restore Miscellaneous

If applicable, re-store the heat and anything else you removed from the inner part of the area.

[8] Initially Tighten the Fastener

If your service and stands are very stable, the axle nut/bolt to indicated specification. If not, tighten enough so the assembly is stable to put back on the wheels.


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