VW Caddy / Eastwood Blog Featuring ‘Shop Talk’ with Kevin Tetz — Volkswagen Caddy pickup I

16 мая 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи VW Caddy / Eastwood Blog Featuring ‘Shop Talk’ with Kevin Tetz — Volkswagen Caddy pickup I отключены
Volkswagen Caddy pickup I

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DIY Spray On Bed How-To.

Trucks are initially by the auto manufacturer with the of using it as a workhorse. They you proper rated tires, duty leaf springs, right from the factory. But most trucks, they paint the bed with the same as they do the exterior of the truck. looks great on the dealer but the first time you attempt to use it as a truck, you will find the paint chips and comes off easily. This then to rust in the bed that can eventually (mental note: Rust=Bad). A bed is by far, the best solution for any that you plan to carry any with.

For those following at all the past few months, I spent a portion of my summer restoring an old VW pickup truck. Now after the exterior of the truck and detailing the and engine bay, I had the truck much better than it did I first got it. The only nagging was that the finish inside the bed of the wasn’t fitting the part. though I plan to only use the bed for minor loads (maybe a trip or two with it), I wanted a finish that allow for the bed to stay looking I also wanted the finish to be enough for me to load stuff in if need be.

I ended up choosing a kit we called Shake and Shoot Kit . This kit is designed to be extremely friendly. In this case I something I could do in an hour or and not waste the entire day.

I had done a spray on bed liner on my own so I decided to be overly cautious and and plastic off the entire back end of the I wanted to take every to keep from a mistake bed liner on my fresh paint!

is what the bed looked like to off.

I then took a brush and brushed out any loose rust and paint. Even the bed liner will stick to anything, you still want the you are spraying to be as solid as possible. I followed up with Rust on any of the areas with heavier Once the converter had fully it’s job, I hit those areas, and the rest of the surface with Rust Encapsulator to and seal any further rust occurring under the bed liner. I that we preach it a lot here at but making sure you prep the area correctly, will make the final product much better.

Once all of was taken care of, I went cautious with my masking off the half of the truck. Anytime you are there is no harm in masking off an a little more than you need. This keeps any of getting over spray you don’t need it. I used plastic sheeting and painters to get it all covered up. Keep in mind the areas you tape off close to the of the bed will be where the bed liner stop. I decided to hard the top of the bedsides with the painters along with just the rear window. This allow me to keep the nice paint I sprayed in those in tact, and leave a nice with the black bed liner.

The products needed to do this job are minimal. I choose this kit for that reason. Aside the Shake and Shoot Bed Liner Kit I already mentioned, I chose to use our undercoating gun to apply the bed liner. kit comes with two different for applying your coating. In the end I it was much easier to stick the stock nozzle on the gun. It was accurate, and allowed for me to keep a hand free to hold my from touching the wet bed liner spraying. For someone with a with a larger bed, the might come in handy to hit hard-to-reach areas with out too much.

Mixing the parts shooting the bed liner is extremely It really is as simple as the name of the suggests. You first add enough of the B catalyst to the Part A can to fill up to the they have on the label. it is filled, thread the cap back on the A can and shake for a few minutes until the has completely mixed in. Once it is mixed, you can remove the cap on the can, and it directly onto the undercoating This is very handy, as it from any mess mixing and the chemicals into a special for the gun. I told you this was to be simple right? One thing to is that the bed liner has a moderately pot life after it has been It calls for about a 45-60 life in mid-70 degree Because of this, you want to sure that you have ready to go before you start the bed liner.

Since I had never this particular undercoating gun and bed I decided to do a test spray on cardboard to dial in the spray to where I felt comfortable. The gun is quite accurate with over spray if you dial the tip in a

Once you have your fan set how you like it, you are ready to spray the I chose to work from the out as I sprayed. Once it lays, it to blend together pretty One thing to mention is that you to make sure that you a pattern running the length of the bed as you You don’t want to spray to side, then along the of the bed, as it will possibly an inconsistent finish. Once you are you can also notice that the you lay the bed liner on, the more textured the becomes. This is something you may to pay close attention to if this is of a show vehicle. If you watch you can keep the texture about the through out the entire bed. I up using three of the four of bed liner on my truck. My truck is small, so anyone with a larger truck may consider two kits to be safe.

Here you can see the bed after I had just about half the bottom of the

The light sheen of the coating can be immediately after I was done. If you closely you can see a spot I had resprayed I had gone a little light on a coat. This blended fine into the existing bed I sprayed.

After everything had cured (about 2-3 hours I snapped some pictures of the look of the bed liner. You can also see in the picture how I laid the bed liner heavy to get a nice texture to the

A week later, and I can say I am very with the bed liner. It held up to some engine parts I had into the bed to carry around. I hit the bed with a power washer, and it just as it did when I was done. was a nice change to some of the major jobs on the truck I did my Gas Tank Restoration job that I in August. It didn’t take all wasn’t all that messy, and I covered in stinky old fuel, so I was as could be!

Feel free as to comment with any techniques or that any of you have used!

the chance?

Anyone that has almost any kind of automotive can probably remember a whoops You know the one, where it like your life went into slow It could be the bolt you dropped into then engine or the screwdriver in your pocket you sat down in your seats etc. You always look and just have to shake head.

Recently for me, I had one of those that really ranks up with some of my other moments. On old VW Rabbits there is a hole in the transmission which for you to aim a timing light to set your timing (you all see where is going right?). The hole is larger than the size of a dollar. From the factory came plugged with a cap that threaded into the Unfortunately these are almost seized into the transmission, and the time you go to remove them, become brittle, and fall This was the case on my VW pickup project. Since the truck is done, I just left the open figuring there much chance of dropping in it. Boy was I wrong!!

It all started with up my new electric fan to the radiator, It requires me to the battery to get to the mounting bolts. As I over the truck with my ratchet and 10mm socket, I over to loosen the positive when the socket decided to off of the ratchet. It proceeded to bounce once, on the edge of the battery, and (Imagine a NBA player hitting a 3 pointer) right into the hole in the transmission. All I could to myself was What’s the chance of . After a few angry attempts needle nose pliers, I I was most likely going to to remove the transmission, all for this one socket. I was not pleased.

I went into work and it over with a few of the guys in our office. Being that all of us are Car they all had a similar story of time when they something down into an transmission, or just into the bay, only to spend fishing it out. It then on me. we recently pulled out a old Video that we used to carry in our This thing is a few years but still works great. I with the video scope, I locate where in the bell of the transmission that the socket was Then, I could insert a telescoping magnet into the and hopefully lift it up out. a gadget nerd, I was all for playing errr. I mean. testing the scope!

I am happy to report after a few tries, and about an fishing the camera around in the to locate the socket, I was able to get it This was quite a relief, as I was having to remove the transmission Along the way I snapped a few pictures. You can the Stanley on the socket on the monitor, it was all the way at the front corner of the bell

What was your most whoops moment? What did you to do to fix it? Post a comment and share!

the pictures below for the larger of each!

The cure for rusty-tank

It’s one thing to have to rust that is easily like on floor pans or panels, where it isn’t too to get to the problem area.  Nothing is than restoring a vehicle, to find that the fuel you have in it is full of loose and coated in varnish. I recently victim to this exact with my VW pickup truck I had gone through quite an job in getting this truck to the where it was almost drivable, to be stopped dead in my tracks. If you are (or masochistic) enough to have to go this process, I decided to do a universal how-to pictorial of how to go this process.

Now, Eastwood readers, I feel we are good enough friends I can tell you how it is without sugar it. This job is going to be messy, and downright unpleasant. You have to if the gas tank on the inside is rusty to cause an issue, the exterior of the and it’s mounting points to be that much worse. I that that was exactly the on my truck. It seemed like I looked, under the bed of the truck had rust, the outside of the tank the worst of it for sure. As I dug into it, I I really had to work to coax the holding the gas tank straps to off. Luckily I had grabbed a can of CRC before starting on this. We started carrying this and I will admit, I was a bit skeptical to say the I mean, come on, it freezes the off? But J.R. from our RD assured me that it was the cat’s as far as rust fighting penetrates go. So I the threads on the stud, and the nut itself, a few with the freeze-off, and let it sit. working the nut back and forth, a tapping with a small and some baby-talk to it, I was able to get nuts to thread off with out a stud or having to cut the nut off. I say that the freeze-off gets my

After assuring that I have to cut off any nuts or mounting I removed the fuel pump the fuel filler hose to the and any associated breather hoses. I dropped the fuel tank out of the truck. I’ve found your average floor is perfect for this job. the tank was out, I set it on a fender to work on it (not before the acorns off the top of the tank!). I started by the fuel out completely. You can see from the of the pre-pump filter, and also of was left in the drain pan, how bad the rust and dirt inside the was. This was the 4th fuel in a matter of a week. Each I would attempt to drive the and hit a bump, the filter would get with more rust. note the pictures of the inside of the that I shot, if you look you can see the piles of rust still in the along with all of that I tried to knock all the major off of the walls of the inside of the tank by some old chain into the and shaking it around for a few minutes (I you this wasn’t going to be Follow all of this up by spraying the washer inside of the tank, to flush all of that rust you loose out of the tank.

Volkswagen Caddy pickup I

After the tank out and drained, I realized I wasn’t going to be able to use our tank sealer kit and restore the of the tank, I was going to have to do about how the outside looked. I to choose our Tank Tone Kit . kit is made to help treat and surface rust on the outside of the and then you apply a silver that is fuel resistant and the tank looking like the day the left the showroom. I needed to assess the corrosion and make that I wasn’t attempting to a tank that possibly rot out and leak after a year or I hit the tank with a wire and a metal scraper to get all of the heavy off first. After checking the for any thin spots, I started the rust converter that is in the kit. Luckily I have a 10 gallon tank in that so only one tank tone kit was I would suggest at least two for an average full size car or Because of how extensive the rust was on the of the tank, I let the rust converter sit on the for a full 24 hours.

I took pictures below how the converter progressed over time. The last pictures you can see how the surface has changed color of the all over!

Here is the rust working after only a few on the rusty tank.

Now here is 24 hours with the Rust working on the tank. Notice how much of the rust has now been turned to a color. The outside of the tank is now to be primed and top coated!

This is the process of restoring an old gas tank begins to make you rethink why you are this project yourself, but I you. if you stick with me, the end is surely worth it! I one of our Tank Sealer Kits For . again two or more kits needed for larger tanks. I the openings in the tank using tin-foil and length screwdrivers. This the chemicals from getting all over the The first step is adding a of our metal wash . has been diluted with two of hot water. You then shake, and the tank to get the metal wash to into all surfaces and etch the This is a process that you be very, very good at by the

After draining and rinsing the out, you follow up with a of muriatic acid diluted in a gallon of hot water. This acid is stuff, the bottle was smoking I opened it. that is always a sign that this is not a that you want to get on your Again, mix the acid with the dump it in the tank, slosh the tank, rinse. You can see how brown and contaminated the coming out of the tank was still at second step.

At this I tried snapping a photo how the inside of the tank was beginning to be and brought back to clean Pretty neat to see, but tough to

In the next step, you dump an bottle of fast etch in the to clean and etch. Once you drained that all out, you small can of Acetone to clean the and help evaporate any other in the tank. Each of these are the same as the others, dump in the slosh around in the tank, out.

After I got the majority of the out, I let the tank sit upside down for an to let the chemicals evaporate inside. I used 1.5 bottles of the tank and sloshed it around in the tank. time I took much care, making sure all of the inside were covered and the sealer puddling or filling the center I let the tank sit upside to avoid this and it also the top of the inside of the tank to get coverage.

The sealer fumes are intense, I got too close and accidentally breathed in the when trying to shoot the of the inside of the tank, and it made me and nearly faint. The lengths I to get everyone a thorough DIY article their toll that night! stuff. Subsequently I got a headache on in the evening. Moral of this is, DO NOT under any circumstances, breathe in, or inhale the coming out of the tank after the been applied!

The instructions then called for you to put an air in the tank and run it at at a low PSI to help dry the sealer and it from puddling too much. Since I have an air compressor at my home garage yet, I decided to rig up the exhaust on the vac to circulate air inside the tank. I it on for about an hour, and it definitely to do the trick.

Once the tank had dried and there were to no fumes remaining, I applied the Tank to the outside of the tank. This really a world of difference. I still trouble convincing friends this is the tank!

As they say in the repair installation is the reverse of removal, so I the restored tank back up the truck. Luckily it all fit back it’s home pretty and I was left to admire my handy and reflect on the restoration process. As can relate, sitting back and your handy work can be a 22.  while it allows you to appreciate the end of the hard work you put restoring something, it also you to see the imperfections and faults in everything it! I now noticed all of the suspension and brackets under the truck had minor surface rust on them. Not to the spots on the floor beds of where I had applied our Brushable Sealer and I felt like needed some undercoating to that OEM finish back to boards, and match the fresh of the gas tank.

So that begun the of again using Rust to treat and convert all of the surface as well as prep the surfaces for top I sealed the treated areas Rust Encapsulator . and followed up a top coat of our Satin Extreme Black . I felt this the undercarriage parts a nice OEM finish, and also gave me the of mind that the rust be coming back to haunt me down the road!

All in all, was a very tedious, long But, I am happy to report since restoring the tank, the is now running well on its new and is very close to being worthy! I can’t wait what the exhaust shop of the undercarriage of the truck when they my custom exhaust this

Keep up the hard work, and as any and all comments, questions, and advice are here if you leave a comment!!


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