Car Audio — Volkswagen Pointer II

1 Фев 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Car Audio — Volkswagen Pointer II отключены

Its a shame to take a fairly performance car and weigh it down a lot of stereo equipment, but its even of a shame to drive around the average (at best) car audio that comes in my GTI. I to change all that. Crutchfield and Domain to the rescue. )

Merry to me.

Parts List:

Amplifiers . I got one 4 channel for the front speakers, one amp for the subs.

Speakers . Two pairs of speakers (6 Ѕ” round) and a 12” sub.

Unit . I like Alpine. Its to go wrong with the stuff been doing lately.

. 5 farad for every 1000 of amp power. I went above and did 1 farad for the 1000 watts of amp that I’ve got.

deadening Material . Dynamat and extreme are the best that used. Cascade Audo is really good for flat

Power Cable . I got 20 feet of 2 GA for the main power lead goes from the car battery to the hatch area. This was too much, but I didn’t want to run I got another 15 foot of 4 GA wire for specifically to the amps. What you use depends on your amps. amps only take 8ga For that you’d need to run 8ga the distribution blocks and the amps. Go as big as amps will let you. For the cable, 1/0ga is great, but it is big to route through the firewall and the door jam. It can be done, but it is difficult.

Power Wire . I bought two sets of 2GA wire but I only ended up using one I didn’t get a battery terminal. I used the 2ga wire terminal and it to the OEM battery terminal.

Fuse Block . You need to put a within 18” of the battery. Get a fuse that matches the gauge of power cable. I got a 2ga fuse like this one. I the blade fuses to the tube I have no reason for that. I the way they look. Add up the fuse of your amps and that’s the of fuse you should get. of my amps requires an 80-amp Add those together and I should get a fuse. I ended up with a fuse since I couldn’t one that was 160-amp. I’ve had no

You’ll need 2 distribution . These take the 2GA power for the 12v line from the battery and the strap and break them into 4GA wires that go to amplifier and to the capacitor. I got mine but Sound domain has some ones that you can get by clicking I needed the ability to have a 2ga and at least 3 4ga outputs (one for the 4 amp, 1 for the mono amp, 1 for the If you’re not going to run a capacitor, you can use one of .

Speaker Wire . I used Fosgate, Type RF Braided wire. For the component speakers, I 15ga and I bought 2 spools were 30 feet each. I have a lot left over. For the sub I 13ga and bought a 10-foot of that. I had plenty left

Speaker Wire Ends . I a ton of these from sound I probably used 10 or 12 packets of for the speaker install. They great. Electrical pliers perfect for doing the crimping. held tight and sound I bought some heavier ones for the sub wiring, but ended up all of those connections instead of connectors.

Interconnect cables . These the sound signal from head unit to the amps. need 3 of them (one for pair of channels on your How you route them is up to you. I mine down the center to keep them away the power cable and the speaker This gives the best and makes the interconnects the shortest, but them to go under the carpet the center console and the back is a BEEEAAAATCH. I still haven’t it yet. Buy the best quality that you can afford. These are If you get ones with fancy ends, make sure you them so they don’t when they’re plugged in. wires move around and you want these touching. I the ends of mine. Some route them down the door sills. If you do that, need at least 12-13 interconnects. I don’t know how long. If you go straight up the hump, need interconnects that are feet. The ones I originally were too long. I just 3 of these .

Misc. other . I had a spool of 16ga wire so I could wire up the remote from the head unit to the This basically turns the on and off with the head unit. See your amp suggests for the gauge of to use. I ran one wire back to the then spliced it into a “Y” and one to the sub amp and one to the 4-channel amp.

Wiring Converter . There’s a wiring converter that you can get for the head I found that I wanted to all the OEM wiring intact in case I need or want to go back to I took all the wires out except for the 12v and the ground wire. It made it so I have to splice into under the dash. For the 12v Ignition Crutchfield suggested that I the windshield wiper fuse and run a from the left side of to the head unit. This was The instructions should come the wiring harness converter.

Installing all that stuff:

than going through a How To on the install, I’m going to give some pointers on I found works and doesn’t Everyone’s installs are going to be a bit so this will hopefully those who are undertaking their install.


I installed my and cap on the backs of the seats. The down of this is that the passenger rear seat is extremely to begin with. With a big amp on the back, its even heavier. I this stuff called Glue and some sheet screws to attach 5/8 MDF to the back of the That allows me to screw the right into the seats

Rear seats with boards for mounting amps

Drivers’ side seat

Amps, Distribution blocks and installed.

In the car and wired up


Depending on what kind of you get to replace the OEM system, you’ll to find a way to mount the tweets. I had to out the back of the trim panel covers the tweeters and then the tweeters directly on the sheet They *JUST* fit.

Tweeter Cover.

Here’s mine looks like I’m done.

Another of the modified tweeter cover

One look

Last one. I

Tweeter installed. I used double stick tape to it in place.

Passenger door for the door card and tweeter

Another view of the passenger

Infinity tweeter hidden the OEM cover.

Sound Deadening:

If you have any dynamat, get some. At get a few of the speaker packs that 2 10×10 sheets of dynamat in them. They go for about $20 per and they are well worth it. I a mixture of Cascade Audio and dynamat extreme. The V-Block is easier to use on flat surfaces and very well. The dynamat is more difficult to work but form fits to curved better than the V-Block. The comes with a foam that is great for helping get rid of You can stick this stuff the door release cable and the panel and it really makes it so you get any door rattles at all.

For this stuff, you’ll a heat gun, a roll of towels, some denatured and some rags you don’t tossing when you’re

Volkswagen Pointer II

Most of the interior panels on the half of the car are coated on the inside wax to help seal them the elements and protect them assembly. This wax is a good but having it up on the inside of the door makes it so the dynamat and v-block stick. Start with the gun (on low) for short blasts to it up and then wipe it away the paper towels. Make you use short blasts. just to soften up the wax. It isn’t too to burn your paint a good heat gun. Be take your time and wear some cheap gloves to protect your from getting cut up by the sheet edges inside the door. remove all the wax. Leave of it down at the bottom where the panels meet. I figure it has sealing properties and was put there for a Rubbing things down denatured alcohol on a rag will the prep work for stuff you’re going to dynamat.

Pay close attention to where you your crossovers. There are few places where you can actually them easily. This pic you a good place to mount in the doors:

Here’s the door all the sound deadening and the Infinity and crossover installed

In the back, is really no room to mount it. is a big styrofoam piece that VW around the rear speaker for deadening. I carved out the back of so that the crossover could fit it. Take your time, it work. I also dynamatted and sided taped the styrofoam the speaker so there was no way it could around down the road. things tight in there help in the long run.


Make a spacer for door mounted driver. As was in another thread, for many of speakers you have to make a so that the window doesn’t hit the of the speaker when it rolls For the Infinities, this may be as little as My window barely touches the of the speaker with no spacers. If you its good to put a thicker spacer in to get the closer to the grill on the door I’ll take photos of in the near future so you can see what talking about. I’ve that people move out as much as 2 depending on model. what I’ve read, 1.5 be possible with most car most speakers. The OEM speakers had the 1 cone that pressed up the inside of the grill. They even move closer to the without that cone.

Top of spacer

Another view of the spacer

are both made with 3/4 I used my Ryobi speed saw to these. That tool It cuts through MDF like it was 😉

Modified speaker panel for the door.

The front speakers are in. You have to drill the rivets to get out. I extended the holes a to better fit the Infinity speakers. I cut a small slot so that the inserts can just poke and make it a lot easier to tighten the speakers. A sheet of dynamat makes it all stick together Nothing moves at all.

for speaker wires

With the hole completely sealed, needs to be a way to get the speaker wires I drilled and sanded two holes for the leads. After protecting the with extra shrink I threaded them through and sealed the holes with extreme.

Spacers Installed

installed in the door


Inside of the door card

I put a V-block to help get rid of some air space next to the driver. The side has no dead air space to the shape of the door card.

Installed and spaced to the grill


Volkswagen Pointer II
Volkswagen Pointer II

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