VW Polo problem and solution — Volkswagen Polo Mk2

13 Фев 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи VW Polo problem and solution — Volkswagen Polo Mk2 отключены
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VW Polo problem and solution

Volkswagen Polo, instrument fault, instrument cluster, alternator light, fuse, wire, blue wire, intermittent fuel gauge, gauge, gauges, warning

Summary

On older cars, the only works if it receives a priming current via the alternator light. After a connection in the instrument panel of my 1990 VW the alternator stopped charging the Eventually the car died completely due to a battery. Fixing the instrument resolved everything. Do not assume the alternator has failed until you see the warning light come one the engine running.

The problem

The symptom was quite minor and we it. Driving along the motorway one the fuel and temperature gauges fell to zero. Nothing happened and the car continued driving Then, after a few minutes, the came back on again. intermittent fault continued, and got so that the gauges were off of the time than on. But we thought, ‘So it never overheats anyway, and we have a feel for how many between fill ups, so as as we keep our eye on the odometer (which to work fine) we will when to refuel. It’s a loose connection and we will get to fixing it one day.’ What we did not was that the instrument panel lights were part of the circuit and were failing This would not be a problem except that the alternator charges the battery if it receives 12V the instrument panel (learn this ‘exciter current’ in the posting for alternators). So over our battery ran down until one driving along happily, all the failed suddenly, the car stopped and the hazard lights were so as to be almost invisible.

The diagnosis


I assumed it was either the or the alternator. The battery was totally as I knew, but it charged up fine (giving 14V) and stayed So it wasn’t the battery. Then I it must be the alternator. But why hadn’t the warning light come on? was when I made the connection the other fault, the one about the panel gauges. When the key was turned halfway, none of the lights came on: no alternator no temperature light, no oil light. In the only light that on the whole instrument panel was the light. So I thought, ‘before I the alternator, I ought to confirm it is broken by seeing the alternator come on when the engine is I surfed the web to see if any other VW owners had the problem, and a site called gave me lots of useful I learned all about the ‘infamous wire’ that takes 12V to the from the instrument panel the alternator can start charging the So I guessed that if I fixed the panel, the alternator would

be OK. Also, I learned that people had found a blown (number 3) and fixing that had the problem. Other advice was to the voltage regulator behind the panel, the earthing points and the switch attached to the ignition

Checking the circuit

I checked the visually and I checked for a circuit all the fuse connections. All the fuses OK. I was able to access the connector for the panel, a flat, white-plastic, connector, by taking off the driver’s-side The pins in this connector are T14/1 through T14/14 in the manual. When the key was in the off position, T14/6 gave 12V (using the frame as earth). When the key was in the position, T14/5, 6, 13 and 14 gave The Haynes manual circuit did not explain what T14/5, 6 and 13 for, but it did show that (the leftmost pin) 12V into the instrument panel for all the circuits except the full-beam light. So this made me the T14 connection, but the problem must be inside the instrument panel everything as far as the 14-pin connector as expected. I removed the instrument as instructed in the Haynes manual the steering wheel, a piece of and withdrew the instrument panel. It was a tight fit, and one thing the manual did not mention – I had to disconnect the cable from the gearbox to get slack to withdraw the instrument There is no way you can withdraw the instrument without doing this On the back of the instrument panel is a circuit, sealed in green plastic. It looked fine, as did the regulator, a little 3-pin component. There were no burn marks or corrosion. So I set the tester to ‘test circuit’ and for a circuit between T14/14 and the pin of the voltage regulator. There was no even though the circuit looked absolutely fine. I checked T13 with a distant of the circuit (followed visually) it a good circuit.

The solution

My father-in-law is a professor of and he soldered a wire from the connector to the appropriate connector on the stabilizer. This bypassed the break in the circuit and now everything fine! The instrument panel come on, the gauges work, and the light comes on (when the key is and goes off when the engine is showing that the alternator is the battery.

Tips for the soldering

Polo car catalogue

–To the 14-pin connector to still scrape off a little of the laminate from the connector to make the connection.

– Measure the piece of to make it as short as possible, so is no slack.

– Place small of insulating tape over the points and over the wire, to risk of short circuits the instrument panel is replaced.

– If you have an electronics expert to practice soldering first, than spilling solder all the circuit.

Final tip

Disconnect the negative of the battery before doing all work. You have to reconnect to test circuits, but leave it at other times.

A word the website

If you would like to some useful information cars that is not already explained on the web, send me an like this one. I set up a ‘Cars’ link on the homepage, the other links.

Vw polo mk2

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