Pelican Parts Buying a 914 — Volkswagen-Porsche 914

2 Май 2015 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Pelican Parts Buying a 914 — Volkswagen-Porsche 914 отключены
Volkswagen-Porsche 914

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Here are extras to look for when your car.

Sway Sway bars were in most years, and it’s quite uncommon to find a car them installed. The can be added on but it can take some time and as well as a little welding.

Console with Gauges. sold with the Apearance Package, the center console is a goodie with all 914 owners. cost about $300-$350 for a condition one with the center all the gauges, and the correct heater See Figure 1 for a picture of the center

Chrome Bumpers. Front and these are another favorite many 914 owners. Figure 2 the rear chrome bumper.

Wheels. These were standard on the 2.0L cars and optional on the other cars. 3 shows a car with the original 2.0L Alloys. These have the inserts painted something that was not done to wheels. Original Fuchs have a VW logo on the rear. In our gallery, there is a picture of a 914 the rarer Mahle Alloys. available were Pedrini

Air Conditioning. Not overly popular, the A/C offered for the 914 cut down on horsepower, and made some major to the chassis of the car. The A/C unit was installed by the dealers.

Fog Lamps. popular option were fog which were inset the front bumper.

Other Leather wrapped steering leather boot for shift tinted glass, passenger exterior mirror, vinyl on the rollbar, PORSCHE lettering rockers, rear fog lamp cars only), center seating) seat-belt, and rear

Inspect the Car

Here are some hints of what to look for inspecting your future The first thing to always for is rust. Unless you have a lot of and money on your hands love to weld), leave the 914’s alone, or buy one for parts Rust repair can be difficult and depending on how severe it is.

Where to for rust on 914’s:

The front suspension A-arm points (where the suspension to the chassis).

The floor pan (make the seats aren’t falling

The rocker panels — check the jack post area.

The rear suspension points, especially the right-hand

The rear trunk pan.

The of the front trunk.

Inside the lift up the carpet and look for around the pedal assembly, the mounting points, and behind the at the firewall.

In the engine compartment: around the battery tray. It is common for the battery tray and to be rusted, and that is a fairly fix, but what you want to for is rust in the engine shelf the tray. If there are big rust and holes here, then under the car near at the right suspension console and look for rust there.

Also in the compartment, look in the forward (use a flashlight). It is an area water can sit.

Okay, so the is good, what next? How is the Are the panels straight? Do the doors and close easily? Have the and rear decklids ever bent? Look at the reinforcement on the decklids, as they will repair welds or previous to the lids. In the front, look in the trunk and see how straight the panels are the bumper and along the headlight supports.

Any previous repairs be obvious there. Check for in the channel that the hood is glued to — especially the headlights.

Do the serial numbers in the trunk (in two places) match the serial numbers (see QA on 914 serial numbers ). In the rear check the straightness of the rear between the taillight assemblies, and for patches in the rear trunk Remember, the newest 914 is 22 years old last one was built on 1/22/76).

is the history of the car? Is it fuel or carbureted? Fuel Injected are inherently worth more, most people abandoned the injection after they had with the running of the engine. How it drive (if it drives)? Does the start easily when it is Does is start easily warm or hot? Does it well when it is warm all seem to idle rough cold). Does it shift

Don’t fall in love a car just because it ‘looks’ We have seen many, cars where the owner spend $1,000 on wheels and yet they won’t spend on normal maintenance. I know of a where someone bought a (looking) 914 2.0 for $4,000 (it was a real eye and within 8 months he had to rebuild the and transmission, replace the clutch, all the discs and pads and wheel and many other items. He up with a $12,000 914 real Have the car checked out by someone who We perform prepurchase inspections of

How is the body? Are the panels straight? Do the open and close easily, and are the between the door and the body even. Again, check the of the battery, then look the car near the battery. Does the have any records? All 914-4 originally came with injection (a few Solex carburetor were made for Europe). have the car checked out. It is cheaper to pay more for a rust-free than it is to repair a rusty one in the run. A fuel injected 914 in shape should start up easily. 914’s are known for sloppy shifters and can be difficult to get first gear. This be something as simple as a clutch and shift bushing replacement, or it can be a of a worn clutch or transmission.

the 914-6, there were main versions of the 914-4 produced. These were the 1.8L, and 2.0L. Although identical to each other in and principle, only a select few can be interchanged among the years. The definitive way for a beginner to tell the between engine types is to the serial number on the case. One of advice: always check the number yourself. The seller may not know what size is in the car.

In 1970, the 914-4 shipped a 1.7L engine that 80 Horsepower. The engine used a MPC (or D-Jetronic) fuel injection This engine is most characterized by a circular air box located in the of the engine. Total engine was 1679cc. For more detailed on this engine, see our technical

In the years 1970-1972, the engine did not change. In 1973, the compression was lowered in the California cars to tougher smog laws and octane fuel. 1973 was the year that the 1.7L was produced.

The serial number for the motors can be found on the engine towards the rear of the car. The of the 1.7L serial number is in Figure 4. It may be difficult to view number because of all the fuel components that occupy in the engine compartment. 1.7L numbers always begin the letter W, followed by a number to the year of the car. For example, a 1.7L engine’s serial would start with the W2. In late 1973, some engines were labeled serial numbers beginning EA and EB.

In 1974, Porsche changed the and fuel injection of the 1.7 motor, it to 1.8L (1795). Because motor used a lower ratio, the overall horsepower from the engine dropped to 76 HP. The newer fuel injection, the L-Jetronic system, relied on the use of vacuum control and feedback. a much better system the D-Jetronic, the early L-Jetronic were often prone to reliability problems primarily due to the reliance on the integrity of the vacuum Visually, this system is recognized by the large black air box located in the engine compartment on the side.

Porsche was forced to add equipment to the 1.8L engines. EGR were added to the heads, and a converter was added to the exhaust Total horsepower remained at 76. There was no smog pump on the 1975 1.8L 914. there were no 1.8L produced in 1976.

The serial number for the 1.8L is located in the same location as the one for the This location is shown in 4. 1.8L engines. The 1.8L serial numbers begin the letters EC.


In 1973, Porsche an increased displacement motor for the The 914 2.0L used the same MPC (D-Jetronic) that the 1.7L had used, however, almost of the parts from the injection are interchangeable. The fuel injection is visually recognized by a large metal airbox that in the center of the engine compartment. 2.0L motor had a displacement of and achieved 95 horsepower. The European had a slightly higher compression (by using different pistons) and 100 horsepower. Although nearly in design, this motor only a few parts with the motor, and the 1.8L motor the next year. Full specs on the 2.0L engine can be in our 914 technical section.

Volkswagen-Porsche 914

The 2.0L remained essentially unchanged the 1973 model year. in 1975 and 1976, Porsche smog equipment that the total horsepower output to 90 HP. EGR and a smog pump were on most cars, as well as a converter for the California models.

The engine serial number can be on the engine case just in of the oil filler neck. This is shown in Figure 5. The 2.0L cases always started the letters GA or GB.

Things That May Trouble

Carburetors on 914 Engines

All of the 914s were sold fuel injection on the engines. You may in your travels that fuel injection system has removed and replaced with a set of This is usually a bad sign for a of reasons.

Firstly, the removal of the injection system indicates there was a problem with it the owner either couldn’t or want to fix. The fuel system (when running and maintained) makes for a superior delivery system. Replacing it carbs makes the car run less usually coupled with a in power.

If an owner of a 914 replaced the fuel with carbs, they have done it because he the motor to be a racing motor. The fuel injection cam will not well with a set of carbs, and if you place carbs on the motor, you should use a cam ground for specifically for If there is a carb cam in the engine, the original fuel injection not make the car run well. The cam needs to be to the injection system. This is of concern to smog-conscious owners. the fuel injection on an engine a carb cam inside will not the car pass the smog test.

In it is illegal to install carburetors on the 914 for cars 1974 and newer. The car not pass the visual smog and most likely will not at the tailpipe. It is important to remember replacing the fuel injection most likely cost a of $750. Higher prices may be if the engine is a 2.0L motor.

Smog Equipment

On the 1975 cars, there was a bunch of equipment that was installed. on 2.0L cars there EGR tubes, smog pumps, converters, and charcoal canisters. The cars in 1975 had everything but the pump. On the earlier cars, were equipped with canisters to capture excess fumes.

Missing smog can be very expensive to replace. For the part, the various pieces of equipment can be difficult to locate in condition. Keep in mind missing smog equipment that someone has been with the engine.

VW Bus Engines in

This one occurs much than you would think. the engine inside the car doesn’t any of the 914 serial numbers, chances are is an engine from a VW bus. of the time, these engines be carbureted, which indicates to begin with (see While having a VW bus engine in the car may perfectly fine, it significantly the value of the car. Additionally, you likely don’t know condition the motor is in. VW bus motors are rebuilt to less than standards.

Recommendations

Despite their low price, 914s are still and parts are relatively expensive to a VW bug. You should therefore get the car that you can at the time of purchase. A used 2.0L with options can be had for $5K-$7K. While may seem much higher other cars, condition is important and the car will save you in repairs later on. Even the car will have problems in the — the cars are over 25 old. It’s best to with one that has been cared for.

Most want 2.0L cars, and are more expensive as a result. The car would be a 1973 2.0L, and a ’74 with as many as possible. The late ’75 cars don’t appeal to and are subject to much tougher requirements here in CA. The 1.8L can be reliable if they are well for. The 1.7 cars are the most and usually a good selection of is available.

Well, there you it. We hope that this has been useful, and we will be updating it, as there is a lot of information is not yet included. If you have any questions, free to email us .

Special to Mike Willis and Dave Be sure to check out Dave 914 Frequently Asked Questions. located on this site.

Volkswagen-Porsche 914
Volkswagen-Porsche 914
Volkswagen-Porsche 914
Volkswagen-Porsche 914
Volkswagen-Porsche 914

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